My Performance 4L60e being built right now
05-10-2010, 09:50 PM
#31
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They are GM, the china ones don't have the oil slits on them and are lighter. I'll have my truck Tuesday night. I forgot to buy some parts being mothers day weekend and all I was out of it.
05-11-2010, 11:28 AM
#32
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Back from hunting down the parts.
Come to find out, On the previous rebuild 40K MILES ago. They rebuilt it, it burnt 3/4 2 weeks later. I took it back and what they did is sand the burnt out of the steels and warped them and put them back in and did not put in the 5 3-4 spring release parts pictured below. Each one was $5.25. Lazyness is the only reason I can think of why this was not put in.
My dad swears the place is a good shop but its hard to beleive.
More pics to come
On the Bearing for the planet, I could not find it and amd going to use the 4 pinion for now. The one that takes the beating fit perfectly with the bearing.
Come to find out, On the previous rebuild 40K MILES ago. They rebuilt it, it burnt 3/4 2 weeks later. I took it back and what they did is sand the burnt out of the steels and warped them and put them back in and did not put in the 5 3-4 spring release parts pictured below. Each one was $5.25. Lazyness is the only reason I can think of why this was not put in.
My dad swears the place is a good shop but its hard to beleive.
More pics to come
On the Bearing for the planet, I could not find it and amd going to use the 4 pinion for now. The one that takes the beating fit perfectly with the bearing.
05-11-2010, 03:15 PM
#33
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Steven, The HD2 kit? I am not beefing up the other springs so I can use them. I also went with the old style piston with the big lip seals.
Last edited by pasadenaman; 05-11-2010 at 03:23 PM.
05-11-2010, 05:43 PM
#34
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Indeed, the hd2 kit, im pretty sure from memory that if you used the high rev spring kit (which you stated your not going to be using) that you should not use those springs. theres a couple other builders out there on other forums that do not use the springs regardless. matter of preference i figure.
05-11-2010, 08:05 PM
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for a while even the ATSG manual instructed to leave them out. they do counteract the force of the 3-4 apply piston... which is way to small to begin with (the reason it's damn near impossible to keep the 3-4's alive beyond 500hp without 230psi+ line pressure).
05-12-2010, 12:59 PM
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Quick update, yesterday the builder ran an air test and there was a tiny bit of air leaking where the input shaft connects to the drum. Called TCI and they said it was normal for that setup but when I told my builder that he wanted to verify with them since we boosted the internal pressure with a .5 boost valve. TCI closed the techline by the time we got through again I asked the to send it to me in writing today.
Tonight the truck should be ready.
Tonight the truck should be ready.
Last edited by pasadenaman; 05-12-2010 at 01:04 PM.
05-12-2010, 01:47 PM
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Some air leaking between the shaft and drum is normal. I always make sure I have a tight fit, and then press the shaft out and put some sleeve retaining compound on the splines. This will help eliminate any leaks, or the shaft coming loose over time.
And why did you decide to go with the old style aluminum apply pistons?
And why did you decide to go with the old style aluminum apply pistons?
05-13-2010, 01:29 PM
#38
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There she is all done
Finally, she is finished set out to dry. Will be installed just as soon as she is dry.
Built408, The Sonnax Input Drum Support Ring Kit calls for it.
Built408, The Sonnax Input Drum Support Ring Kit calls for it.
05-14-2010, 07:16 AM
#40
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Should have got one of these 
http://www.circledspecialties.com/Re...s/OverRun.html
http://www.circledspecialties.com/Re...s/OverRun.html