My 4L80e Build Thread
#121
Well like an idiot, I drilled 2, 3, and 4 at 0.110". I wanted to not drill 3rd at all and just remove the checkball. So now I need to ask Jake or RPM if I can still remove the checkball with it being drilled. I don't know if having it drilled and removing the checkball will make it too violent and break stuff or if it doesn't make a difference. I'll let you guys know what they say.
#122
From what I understand you should be fine leaving it out and being drilled, when I was doing reading on mine I was told that there was a restriction someplace else in the circuit that limited circuit flow anyway, that's why we can just yank the checkball and run it.
Let me know what Jakes says, he would be the person I would trust lol
Let me know what Jakes says, he would be the person I would trust lol
#123
TECH Enthusiast
don't remove any checkballs unless your removing the accumalator housing..if you set the clutch clearance right with a .110 feed hole it will shift firm..you really don't want a real violent part throttle shift it will just break stuff..forgot to mention the only checkball you need removed is the reverse checkball
#124
don't remove any checkballs unless your removing the accumalator housing..if you set the clutch clearance right with a .110 feed hole it will shift firm..you really don't want a real violent part throttle shift it will just break stuff..forgot to mention the only checkball you need removed is the reverse checkball
#125
So after looking through fluid charts before I got home yesterday, I didn't see how a stuck check ball would cause the loss of first gear. It wouldn't. It would only limit fluid flow to the second circuit which I had drilled out to .120. Also, I thought long and hard about thinking it was in first gear once I turned the 1-2 solenoid off. When that solenoid turns off, it would bang into gear, and current gear in HPT shows first. But since I never felt it shift from first to second gear driving up the road, I think its always just been in second gear. Makes me excited to get first gear back and feel the converter. The converter felt looser than expected
So last night when I got home, I just decided to stop messing around and pull the damn thing. So I got everything unbolted and ready to drop the trans. Not sure if I will have time to pull it tonight but hopefully I will be back up and running this weekend.
Since the truck has 2nd, 3rd, and overdrive, I'm convinced it has to be the low roller clutch. It wouldn't have any forward gears if the forward clutches weren't engaging. And since all first gear is are the forward clutches and low roller holding, it has to be the low roller... I don't know if I installed it upside down, or wrong in any way but I really think it has to be that. We will find out!
So last night when I got home, I just decided to stop messing around and pull the damn thing. So I got everything unbolted and ready to drop the trans. Not sure if I will have time to pull it tonight but hopefully I will be back up and running this weekend.
Since the truck has 2nd, 3rd, and overdrive, I'm convinced it has to be the low roller clutch. It wouldn't have any forward gears if the forward clutches weren't engaging. And since all first gear is are the forward clutches and low roller holding, it has to be the low roller... I don't know if I installed it upside down, or wrong in any way but I really think it has to be that. We will find out!
#130
No discount to any professional builders out there, but I prefer to know how to do things myself. I'm glad I took the leap and built the unit myself. Its really interesting how these things work and fun as hell to work on. But to each their own.
I learned my lesson with my turbo kit. Wish I would have built it myself instead of just buying a kit.