moregrip

iTrader: (8)

there are 3

11.5" ff found in 2500hd series trucks w/ 8.1l gas or Duramax engine
10.5" ff found in 2500hd series trucks w/ 6.0l gas engine
9.5" sf found in 2500 or 1500hd series trucks w/6.0l gas engine

parish8

iTrader: (6)

damn, no wonder i am geting confused.

it seems to me the 10.5" ff would be a good choice for me.

is the 10.5" ff the same width as the 8.6" rear?

as far as the ujoint concern i should be able to get the driveshaft for the 2500 truck and just use that, should be strong. just shorten it up.

perches and shocks and all of that can be delt with. sounds like there are lots of posi/locker choices?

last concern(i think), studs and brakes. it seem like i could just drill stud holes where i need them, right thru the rotor and everything. fill the old hole on the axle with weld or not if i dont have to. what about the hub, someone mentioned the hub, will it be larger? the wheels i have coming may have a larger hub hole.

black4x4

iTrader: (2)

If you go with a 10.5" you can get conversion hubs made out of billet for 500 or so then all new bearings and seals and what not gear to what ever ratio you want put a detriot in it and i'll give you a cookie if you can break it. and with the aftermarket billet hubs you will need to run some type of rim were the center bore was something like 4.25"s. if your interested in a complete swap with breaks and hubs a guy named willyswanter on off-roadtech.com can help you out.

mzoomora

iTrader: (31)

I think the 10.5 is a bad choice. They weigh a ton and soak a lot of power. They are better suited for low speed off-road applications. A beefed up 8.6 should last a while if your stock one hasnt broken yet. Who knows. You see f-body guys running 10's on a 7.6 on occasion, and some run 12's and break a 12 bolt. A 9.5 would be nice, and maybe you could find a c-clip eliminator for it. Rears can be sketchy, somebody here just broke a 10.5 G80, and they deffinetly werent running what you are.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

who did this?

mzoomora

iTrader: (31)

Dont remember, was it you? I remember it had seized spiders I think. They bought a Locker for it i remember that much. I have been in the diff/ manual trans industry for about 10 years now, and have seen a lot of rears break. Being wholesale you really see all the different markets and what they use and break. 10.5's are pretty popular for aftermarket parts, but they have been in use for a while now. I can say that the best selling stuff out there is 8.5/8.6, but they have been out since the early 70's and in everything from mid-size cars to full size trucks. I deffinetly dont think the 9.5 gets a lot of due for being string, but they do hold up well. The 454ss trucks had them, and people chase down every 2wd one they can find.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

how much more does a 10.5" weigh? if it is 50 exta lb's i am ok with that for the strength but if i am going to spend i **** load of cash to make it work i might as well go with a 9". i was kind of hoping i could just go get a rear for $800, toss in a locker and redrill the hubs.

if it is going to cost me $3000 to do a rear then i will definately put a locker in the 8.6 and see how long it lasts. localy the tracks wont care if i have c-clips or not but i would hate to get shut down on drag week for not geting rid of them.

mzoomora

iTrader: (31)

I would guess it is over 100 lbs heavier, easy. As far as the wheels, you would need to get 8 lug wheels, or buy custom hubs which are around $500 and then get wheels with a large hub opening. Dont quote me on this, but I think I remember them weighing over or around 400 on a palette without brakes.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

as quoted about the 10.5":

A 14-bolt is a heavyweight in more than one way; it tips the scales at about 525 pounds fully dressed with drum brakes.

black4x4

iTrader: (2)

Last time i wieghed the 9.5 i had in the garge it came in in the niegborhood of 400 pounds with disks and calipers. and for the 10.5 i described above i have heard of prices around 2000.