Help me with adjustable shocks, trac bars, on my lowered truck
04-16-2013, 12:14 PM
#12
Shock stiffness depends on racing surface, tire, weight transfer capability, power, footbrake, transbrake, etc etc etc...there is no way to tell someone over the Internet what their truck needs.
I use a rancho adjustable, with the setup above and my buddy runs a worn out stock shock with the setup above and both have been identical 60'. Dirt track racer uses all leaf springs with drop hangers and shackles and air shocks from 1976 and goes 1.60 or better. Test test test
I use a rancho adjustable, with the setup above and my buddy runs a worn out stock shock with the setup above and both have been identical 60'. Dirt track racer uses all leaf springs with drop hangers and shackles and air shocks from 1976 and goes 1.60 or better. Test test test
04-16-2013, 12:17 PM
#13
Thanks phantom. So I'm going to want the front end to come up and the rear to squat on launch? That should keep the weight in the rear and the tires planted. I will order the trac bars and some shocks first and see where I'm at.
04-16-2013, 12:24 PM
#14
Squat is wasted motion. Sometimes that's what it take though
no squat...1.60 60'
Fastest 99+ Chevy Silverado extended cab Thunder Valley Raceway Park 11-3-12 - YouTube
no squat...1.50 60'
Big Chief testing the turbo truck Thunder Valley Raceway Park 11-3-12 - YouTube
no squat...1.60 60'
Fastest 99+ Chevy Silverado extended cab Thunder Valley Raceway Park 11-3-12 - YouTube
no squat...1.50 60'
Big Chief testing the turbo truck Thunder Valley Raceway Park 11-3-12 - YouTube
04-16-2013, 05:39 PM
#16
Hooking a radial is going to be tougher than a bias-ply silck, unless your down on power, your converter is tight, or you're lucky.
Race with your current rear shocks and see how it does. Try and have someone video tape the rear of the truck to see how the suspension is acting.
Race with your current rear shocks and see how it does. Try and have someone video tape the rear of the truck to see how the suspension is acting.
04-16-2013, 05:49 PM
#17
Hooking a radial is going to be tougher than a bias-ply silck, unless your down on power, your converter is tight, or you're lucky.
Race with your current rear shocks and see how it does. Try and have someone video tape the rear of the truck to see how the suspension is acting.
Race with your current rear shocks and see how it does. Try and have someone video tape the rear of the truck to see how the suspension is acting.
Its the dumbest **** I've ever seen. Thats why I had to get the street radials.
06-30-2013, 07:01 PM
#18
I'm bringing this back up. I'm about to do heads and intake on my truck so I should get some traction aids in the process. I finally got an angle finder and got all the measurments as it sits right now with the 3/5 hanger and shackle drop.
Pinion 6* up
Driveline 0*
Trans yoke 6* down
So this to me seems ideal for the driveline but not so much for traction, correct? Do I need to drop the pinion down 4* so when it launches, the pinion comes back up to 6* and all the angles flush?
Pinion 6* up
Driveline 0*
Trans yoke 6* down
So this to me seems ideal for the driveline but not so much for traction, correct? Do I need to drop the pinion down 4* so when it launches, the pinion comes back up to 6* and all the angles flush?
06-30-2013, 07:08 PM
#19
The correct equation is Pinion angle - driveshaft angle... in your case you have 96-90 = +6*....
IMO you need to drop the pinion angle at least 8-9* downward... See this article...
Pinion Angle - Wolfe Race Craft
IMO you need to drop the pinion angle at least 8-9* downward... See this article...
Pinion Angle - Wolfe Race Craft
