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GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

GM 9.5" 8 Lug to 6 Lug Conversion

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Old 06-07-2019, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LSrBEST
It's quite a bit more work too.. Depending on ones amount of available time it may cost less in the end to take the route you have vs the extra work of cutting welding. I've burned my own *** trying to be cheap.. Looking back there's a few times where I should have just spent the money and moved on.. Glad you got it nailed down & Glad I read this last night. Local CL add has 2 brand new axles for sale 6 lug. So I asked for the length. Waiting for the response, $75 each. Got my fingers crossed as I'm converting a 14 bolt myself.

Well if you're in STL Metro area and need some 33 1/4" 6 lug shafts I got some for sale, lol.
Old 07-06-2019, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Snatchtrick
Update: Called up Dutchman and have them modifying the pilot diameter down from 4.620" to 3.086", hub flange diameter down from 7 7/8" to 7.5", and bolt pattern from 8 x 6.5 to 6 x 5.5 on a stock 99-07 14 Bolt 9.5; 33 Spline; 33 5/16" Length; Dutchman PN#SR306.

After talking around (Thanks FastBrick) , modifying the stock 8 lug shaft that came with would be cost prohibitive and there would be nothing left of the pilot after shaving it down due to it's hollow center. Didn't like the option of the spacer btw hub and rotor either.

So $450 including shipping for some custom axle shafts. It was the only option and just happy Dutchman was able to help me out. Thanks for everyone's help. It was much appreciated.
Did you get your new axles?
Did this solve your issue?
Old 07-06-2019, 08:35 PM
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dont know if it helps but this is the axle i replaced one of mine with, my axle is from a 2wd escalade (replaced my 10 bolt yukon axle with 4/5 link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U9NQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U9NQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
there is a drop down menu, above the one i ordered shows as 33-1/4" 6 lug, 33 spline
Old 07-06-2019, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Did you get your new axles?
Did this solve your issue?

Yup, she's running great now. Only problem that I feel like a dumbass for missing is I put a non ABS axle in an ABS truck. So here's how I missed it.

1. I had no check engine light or ABS light prior to swap, had never hooked it up to a code reader til after the swap.

2. Axle I pulled had no electrical connectors going to it.

3. Checked under the hood, didn't see an abs module under the hood. Didn't really think twice about it.

4. When Dutchman asked me about the shafts, they asked if ABS or not because ABS was an extra $150 charge.

5. When I first took it on a test drive I had a dinging noise when over like 5 mph. Hooked code reader up and found a lost communication to ABS module. Followed the lines under the vehicle and found the ABS module. The dinging was because my parking brake pedal was depressed slightly, since I was waiting on a new Driver's side cable it had no tension. So when I pulled release lever it didn't go all the way back up. Had to pull the pedal up while pulling handle, it's fine now.

6. So now I won't be able to pass emissions (to my knowledge). Guess either mil and brake light bulbs burnt out or previous owner pulled bulbs. Didn't own a scan tool when I bought the truck, never again. Also guess they replaced the ABS stock axle with a non ABS axle.

7. This was the first I've ever heard of an ABS reluctor ring in diff as opposed to the tone rings at the hub. Both the 10 bolt I pulled out and the 14 bolt SF I installed have no sensor holes on diff housing or a block off plate.

8. Following up on a previous comment about not having a fill hole on diff, turns out my fill hole was by the pinion yoke.

So in summary, come November I'll either have to sell my truck for $1 to my fiance to get 1 more year without needing to go thru emissions. Or open a PO Box in a rural town near me that doesn't have emissions and register it there.

I found out recently I have my first child on the way, so a single cab doesn't work for me anymore. Once my Jeep's lift kit is done being installed I'll probably sell it. I'm too honest of a person so I'll give full disclosure of the lack of ABS in the rear. It's a shame because it's a very clean truck (for Illinois at least) and only has 150k miles. If I move to Tennessee like I plan to next year maybe I'll just transfer it to my fiance since I shouldn't have to worry about emissions there. I'm liking the thought of a crew cab vortec max truck. I just got too much money into this axle to start over and the abs is not a fixable problem.

Sorry Fast Brick, should have posted a final update without needing to be promoted. Thanks for all your help.
Old 07-08-2019, 12:49 AM
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By any chance did you get pictures of the modified axles from dutchmen?

You posted you have a 2000 Silverado. Does the 14 bolt have a different gear ratio from what was in the 10 bolt?

The GMT 800 does not use a rear ABS ring. For the rear end, It calculates rear wheel speed based on Output speed sensor at the rear of the transmission, The programed gear Ratio and Programed tire size. If it does not fall within the expected range of what programed, it throws a code for mismatch and sets off the ABS light.

This is likely the cause of your Issue. Having The PCM reprogrammed to match the correct ratio will fix the issue.
Old 07-08-2019, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
By any chance did you get pictures of the modified axles from dutchmen?

You posted you have a 2000 Silverado. Does the 14 bolt have a different gear ratio from what was in the 10 bolt?

The GMT 800 does not use a rear ABS ring. For the rear end, It calculates rear wheel speed based on Output speed sensor at the rear of the transmission, The programed gear Ratio and Programed tire size. If it does not fall within the expected range of what programed, it throws a code for mismatch and sets off the ABS light.

This is likely the cause of your Issue. Having The PCM reprogrammed to match the correct ratio will fix the issue.
No sorry no pictures of the Dutchman shafts. I got a picture of the RPO code from the eBay axle before purchase. It is a GT4 just like my RPO code, so 3.73. I still have no MIL light or ABS light but have a code that comes right back after clearing. This is why I believe bulbs are pulled. Would have to rescan to get a specific code. I did not bother counting teeth on ring and pinion to verify gear ratio. Did count splines on the shafts to match the GMT 400 shafts I tried. Tires should be stock size but I can double check and post sizes with the code tomorrow. Both axles (10 bolt pulled and 14 bolt installed) are G80 govlock.

Now I'm more confused. Didn't expect ABS to be calculated off the rear wheel speed to be calculated off the output speed sensor at the rear of the trans. If that's the case then it would only be able to sense wheel slip btw front and rear rather than left and right as well.

That's why I figured it was a reluctor ring since the shafts were going to be $150 more so they could make sure the shaft is the right diameter where the ring sits (which I think is thicker than the rest of the shaft).
Old 07-08-2019, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Snatchtrick
No sorry no pictures of the Dutchman shafts. I got a picture of the RPO code from the eBay axle before purchase. It is a GT4 just like my RPO code, so 3.73. I still have no MIL light or ABS light but have a code that comes right back after clearing. This is why I believe bulbs are pulled. Would have to rescan to get a specific code. I did not bother counting teeth on ring and pinion to verify gear ratio. Did count splines on the shafts to match the GMT 400 shafts I tried. Tires should be stock size but I can double check and post sizes with the code tomorrow. Both axles (10 bolt pulled and 14 bolt installed) are G80 govlock.

Now I'm more confused. Didn't expect ABS to be calculated off the rear wheel speed to be calculated off the output speed sensor at the rear of the trans. If that's the case then it would only be able to sense wheel slip btw front and rear rather than left and right as well.

That's why I figured it was a reluctor ring since the shafts were going to be $150 more so they could make sure the shaft is the right diameter where the ring sits (which I think is thicker than the rest of the shaft).
Ok would need the code you are getting then. The other thing with the ABS module is there is a weak solder joint that can fail. You can usually take it apart your self and repair it with a solder iron and some fresh solder.

Example of one such. go about 5 min into video.
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Old 07-08-2019, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
By any chance did you get pictures of the modified axles from dutchmen?

You posted you have a 2000 Silverado. Does the 14 bolt have a different gear ratio from what was in the 10 bolt?

The GMT 800 does not use a rear ABS ring. For the rear end, It calculates rear wheel speed based on Output speed sensor at the rear of the transmission, The programed gear Ratio and Programed tire size. If it does not fall within the expected range of what programed, it throws a code for mismatch and sets off the ABS light.

This is likely the cause of your Issue. Having The PCM reprogrammed to match the correct ratio will fix the issue.
So the code is U1041 "Lost communications with Electronic Brake Control Module (ECBM)"

Tire size is P265/75/R16. I do have a spare on the rear it is a P265/75/R17. Don't think the difference in rim size is making any difference since rim size is the same.

Code came right back after clearing, I do see that it does not request a MIL light for this code. So this may be something completely unrelated to my axle swap. Also may not even be ABS related. Sorry thought it said ABS module not EBCM.
Old 07-08-2019, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Ok would need the code you are getting then. The other thing with the ABS module is there is a weak solder joint that can fail. You can usually take it apart your self and repair it with a solder iron and some fresh solder.

Example of one such. go about 5 min into video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aa2cGnufA3E
No ****!!! You're my ******* hero FastBrick. Wish I could meet up with you and buy you a beer. Since it sounds like a common problem on these, I'll go ahead and pull the ECBM and resolder the relay.

While I'm down there I'll go ahead and relocate the evap solenoid to under the hood as well since it sounds like a typewriter until it's warmed up. After that fix my exhaust leak and It'll be like a brand new truck.

Thanks again. This is probably the culprit. I promise I'll post an update once I got it done. Going to go ahead and order that tight quarters ratchet for the tricky torx bits he linked in the video. So probably won't update until end of the week.
Old 07-08-2019, 02:22 AM
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U1041 "Lost communications with Electronic Brake Control Module (ECBM)"

This code Is a communication issue. Could be a bad ground or a bad connection. Could also be an internal fault with the module such as a bad solder joint at the pins.

Are you getting any other codes like the C0265?


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