nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

Im outta ideas... im still thinking tho.

If it were me, i wouldnt drill alot of holes in the frame..

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

I might could weld the angle to the inside of the frame but let it hang an 1/8" low and just cut it to go around obsticles. I'll have to crawl back under. Doing that I could brace the tops of the nuts as well to lessen the likely hood of them breaking off or cracking do to torsional bending. ?

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

How thick of angle? And would thinner stainless plate do better? I like aluminum cause its lighter.

nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

Thats what i meant is on the inside.

Stainless is silly heavy.. but Alum will work.. if its 7075 then your good to go, thats some bad stuff!!

tiffo60

iTrader: (2)

Just for reference

Kenny Brown X-Factor

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

I was thinking the same thing on the stainless. So 7075 would be the better choice over 6061? That was my next question, which aluminum.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Interesting read.


For the OP that's basically what your going to want to do. Look at what chevy did on some of the Silverado's adding front braces that bolt on from the main rails to the center of the front cross member.

7075 Is basically a stiffer aluminum making it a better choice. 6061 is softer and better for machining.

nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

AR15 and AR10 recievers are made from 7075

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

So are the rock krawler links. .

What would do a better job a solid sheet of 7075 from rail to rail or little cross members here and there. Or hell I'll just do both. Not sure if we can get dom tubing yet. We are trying though.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

Oh and that little cross member under the oil pan on the 4wd. I was thinking of linking to that too. Just to add support to that area so the Dmax does t try to split the rails. Lmao.


What's the thoughts on the dimple dies? Hell can you even do that to 7075?