Driveshaft Loop
 

I recently had the bolts holding the driveshaft/u-bolt break and was wondering if anyone makes a loop specifically for our trucks?

I searched and read a couple of old threads but maybe someone finally came up with one instead of everyone fabbing one up or trying to use a universal one.

Plus, I was told I needed one last month because I use DR's a the track.

Every loop I've ever seen for the trucks was a slightly modified universal kit, or completely home-brewed.

I think that if one of our sponsors was to start building them, they would sell pretty good. (hint hint) :)

What AK said....

I will start taking orders :nod:

Well put me on that list. I can't believe no one is making them yet.

I will take 2....

If i had someone with a truck like yalls around here i would tig some stuff up for yall lol

OK, I crawled under the truck a little while ago and it seems the truck has a cross member from the drivers side frame to the passenger side. It should be easy to mount a loop to it. That is why my DS did not hit the ground when I sheared the bolts the other day. It was being held up about 2 inches off the ground by the cross member.

I think I am going to get one put in the rear also because if not the DS can destroy the fuel tank and/or muffler.

Here is the loop I made up, so they would be similar to this.. IIRC there is 2 holes on each side of the frame rails that this is bolted to( been a little while since I been under the truck)

Attachment 144358

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http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...075/005-13.jpg


I also have one in the rear, but it is welded to the frame of the truck.. The fuel tank was a issue for me also...

let me know if your serious..

How much for a set?

The rear would have to be welded on not bolted on atleast the way i ahve mine.. The fron set I will ponder up a price..

Is a rear really necessary? I could see if it fails in the front but in the back it'd just drag wouldn't it?

No telling what it would do, depending on what rpm it lets go.. If it is high rpm, I am sure it could still flop around enough to fuck the tank and other things up. I did the rear one for piece of mind :nod:

Makes sense. I was thinking of just catastrophic circumstances, but I'd probably throw a rear on now that you mention it.

I remember years ago when one of the techs at the Chevy dealer forgot to tighten the u-joint straps after reinstalling the rear driveline. It was on a company vehicle for a local construction company. The kid who picked it up was heading back towards Eagle River, and only got about 4-5 miles away from the dealership when the driveline ejected. We had it towed back, and found the driveline bent, muffler caved in, and transfer case tailhousing cracked. The gas tank had some really cool marks in it, scratches & gouges, but it was all superficial and the tank was still good.

What an expensive fuck up that was....... The service manager was pissed!

i might be interested in a set as well. seems like good insurance especially on a crew cab...

I'd be interested too!

Also interested..
Any idea how much that thing weighs john?

I am not usre if it will work on a NNBS truck.. I know on the NBS trucks that there are them holes to bolt this to.. So on the other trucks if they changed the frame the holes might not be there, you might be drilling holes to ,mount this... As far as weight.. maybe 20 lbs..

just for insurance is nice but remember for track rules (if you slicks), I believe you need one no more than 8" from the output of the trans. The tracks don't care how much damage you make to the underside as long as you don't catapult.

I've been at some tracks when they consider drag radials as a loop requirement.

I definitely want one so when you are ready let us all know.

On mine I will take some pics because in the front I already had a bar going from one frame rail to the other so I would just need the loop and mounting legs.

And on the rear I also have a cross member but it is above the driveshaft so I would need a loop just like the front and just install it upside down with the legs up. That what she said, lol.

I think the rear is as important because if it flops around it will take out your fuel tank and may even cause a fire if it leaks fuel on your hot exhaust.

Yeh, my track ragged on me the last time I went for running DR's without a DS loop.

I will take one when you get a price....

Do you have a price? Im wanting the set as well

I have not even had time to get the truck up on the lift, to get measurements or anything.. :(

If you really do start makin these put me down for a set too please and thank you.

You know I dunno why you guys even piss around making something when you can buy this one :cheers:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/in...ch=25648;image

Edit: It works for 2wd anyway

pic of that bolted up?

Gimmie a week or so for it to show up.

whos is it, and where does it bolt up to??

Yes Dick please show us how that mounts around your shaft.. :jest: phump swingit :jest: I duno if I have ever seen one like that..

And no guys I am being a drag, have not took measurements yet :sigh:

It bolts up to the trans cross member.

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/5307/0930111704a.jpg

US Car Tool makes them. $179 bucks

So do you have any pictures of it mounted, and which one did you get they list two on there site. I think im gonna order one but thought id ask first..

For $179.00 I think I'll just have a custom made instead.

i dont see how that mounts on the member,id like to see a pic mounted as well

I made this one for my truck awhile back. I think the big problem with our trucks is, there's so many variations between 2wd/4wd; short/long bed; reg/ext/crew cab, etc. that there's no real "perfect" place to mount to, except to put the truck on the lift, and start measuring, and trying different things till you hit on the one you want. I must have fucked around for months with different configurations till I found this one that just looks right.....on MY truck. I think it came out perfect....for me. Others might not have the same mounting points to work with.






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Anyone ever start building these?

No, but i bought one of those pictured in post #25 to try and modify to work but dont need it now. So if anybodys interested in one a little cheaper than us car tool pm me its for sale..