The mod bug attacked and convinced me to buy a used magnacharger kit, the price was so good I couldn't pass it up! Now, after reading many posts in this forum, I have decided that the supercharger should sit on the shelf until my drive-train is properly prepared. My trucks' current specs are in my signature, and the following is the plan for use and potential upgrades down the road.

My truck will be used for a daily driver, weekend off road fun on fire roads and light trails, dirt bike transport, 6 times a year towing a max 4500lb. trailer to SCCA events, and 1 or 2 times a year to the strip - just to collect a time slip to see what the truck can do. Stock 265/75R16 A/T tire size.

Immediate configuration following drive-train upgrades, the truck will have all mods shown in my signature installed; and will probably stay that way for a long time. I will have to save money for spare parts !

Possible future plans for my truck not included in my signature are - LPE GT2-3 cam or custom spec supercharger cam (to be installed in the 5.3); boring the 5.3 out to 5.7 specs and installing forged pistons; 3.0" pulley for the radix after punching the block to 3.898; Ported 243/799 or Edelbrock cylinder heads.

Now for the important part, this is what I have come up with after reading countless threads and lurking around.

-FLT Level 5 4L65E, is a hardened output shaft needed? Vacuum-mod needed?

-PI Vig. or Yank SC converter, although I am not sure what stall speed and how many lock up clutches.

-Aftermarket trans cooler, even though I already have the OEM external cooler that came with the tow package on the truck.

-Auburn ECTED rear differential, re-use stock 3.73 gearset, install new bearings and have clearances/gear mesh re-set.

-T/A Performance carrier cap stud kit. T/A Performance Girdle pre-load cover.

-Rebuild the NVG 246 transfer case, to guard against chain break issues as well as case wear issues.


I think this should do it, but I am not totally sure. I want to have a substantially strong set-up before I install my supercharger. If anyone notices something I have missed, please let me know, as well as if there are any suggestion I would really appreciate them. Thanks for reading this long *** post !

Chris

 

if you leave the radix stock tune and boost alone it will be fine on your truck with just a tranny cooler and a shift kit...
if you plan on pulley down a couple of sizes and tune then you will need to upgrade everything else as planed....

 

Install that blower and enjoy the hard work!

 

put it in blow it up and start over hahahahahahaha

 

Your plan is fine and indeed would be for a strong setup but like the other's are saying, get the supercharger on and go from there, since you're going to swap trannys anyway.

Keep in mind a street/strip setup would be different than an offroad/dirt with low stalling or stockish converter and locker for offraod, high stall and lsd for street

 

Thanks for the encouragement! I need to get that supercharger installed. Any recommendations on a stall speed and converter clutch disc count that would be oriented more towards the Daily Driver, Off-Road configuration. That's what this truck sees the most. The Auburn ECTED differential is a Limited slip when not energized and a Locker when energized. I figured this would be the best of both worlds. The only bad thing is I haven't seen too much feedback on this diff. Any experiences with this?

Also, could the horrid clunk in my drive train be coming from my transfer case? I have read a few posts on this and it seems that my U-joints are fine, maybe get the updated slip yoke for the drive shaft? The noise occurs mostly at gear change from P>R, N>D, N>R, as well as take off when slack builds up in the drivetrain. I would like to at least get this fixed before I install the 'Charger.
Thanks!

 

for the shiftkit if you choose TransGo:
Keep the 1-2 shift mild. You want firm but not harsh. The band tends to grab too hard if applied too rapidly, and this breaks hard parts including the band itself. The band is less likely to burn from soft shifts than it is to break from harsh shifts. Set up the accumulator with no spacer washers and go small on the separate plate feed for the 1-2 shift. The 2-3 can be drilled a little larger. The 3-4 clutch pack is easily overheated if it takes too long to engage.
I cannot emphasize this enough - do not set it up to shift harsh. There are plenty of guys here amused by "tire chirping shifts" that will tell you it's the greatest, but it will destroy a 4L60-E and everything downstream.
Good luck