Difference between SUV and truck 10-Bolt Housings?
04-13-2018, 11:37 PM
#11
I'm actually trying to put a 10-bolt in my 77 C10...and do all the NBS 10-bolt upgrades to it since the 99+ 10-bolts have the bigger axle and carrier bearings. I would cut off the spring perches and shock mounts and get those new from Moser and weld them to the NBS housing. But you're right, the SUV 10-bolts have a TON of bracketry on them. It will be simpler to start with a truck housing.
04-14-2018, 12:20 AM
#12
A few reasons. A. My current 12-bolt is leaking from the plug weld and my driveline shop (who has built a handful of Ford and GM diff's for me which always turned out silent) says it is more of a headache than it's worth to fix for a couple reasons. He says later 8.5/8.6 10-bolt housings aren't proned to leaking from the plug welds or the tubes. And B. He says there is a high chance that if we repair the 12-bolt by drilling out the plug welds, jigging the housing, welding the tubes, and using all new internals, that in his experience both the car and truck 12-bolts are far more susceptible to gear whine than the 10-bolts he sets up. C. I also want to shorten the diff by a couple inches and will obviously replace the carrier, gears, axles, studs so I figure why not start with the best OEM housing that I can, which the diff shop says is a 99+ 8.625" 10-bolt. A 14-bolt is unnecessary since it adds weight, is harder to find. There are quite a few 9 second 2WD 10-bolt trucks around these parts with nothing more than axles and a TruTrac, so that's what I hope to emulate.
04-14-2018, 11:04 AM
#13
A few reasons. A. My current 12-bolt is leaking from the plug weld and my driveline shop (who has built a handful of Ford and GM diff's for me which always turned out silent) says it is more of a headache than it's worth to fix for a couple reasons. He says later 8.5/8.6 10-bolt housings aren't proned to leaking from the plug welds or the tubes. And B. He says there is a high chance that if we repair the 12-bolt by drilling out the plug welds, jigging the housing, welding the tubes, and using all new internals, that in his experience both the car and truck 12-bolts are far more susceptible to gear whine than the 10-bolts he sets up. C. I also want to shorten the diff by a couple inches and will obviously replace the carrier, gears, axles, studs so I figure why not start with the best OEM housing that I can, which the diff shop says is a 99+ 8.625" 10-bolt. A 14-bolt is unnecessary since it adds weight, is harder to find. There are quite a few 9 second 2WD 10-bolt trucks around these parts with nothing more than axles and a TruTrac, so that's what I hope to emulate.
2. Cleary the 10 bolt is not the best OEM housing. I have seen them leak at the plug weld, as well as spin the tube in the casting. Not mention numerous broken internal parts... Even the ford 8.8 has aftermarket options to go to larger spline axles as well as eliminate the C-Clips with new ends.
If you want the best, I am afraid a Ford 9 inch would likely be the best. No C clips, larger gear, more aftermarket options all around. It's the only Factory designed housing thats been copied and modified for use in real High horsepower stuff. Like 5000+HP top fuel stuff...
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