I replaced the stock lines with some sst lines and changed the rotors this weekend. I also took the calipers off and painted them so the calipers are also dry(very little fluid in them). I have bled two and a half 32oz bottles of brake fluid and still spungy brakes!!! I can't get these things to pump up for ****!!! The master cylinder gurgles in the rear part of it just above the rear brake line after you pump it up. After pumping the brakes and let off, the gurgling starts and then stops. It seems to build up pressure and then starts to bleed off. I have checked all conctions(sst to hard lines, t's, caliper banjo fittings......). I can't figiure this out for nothing!! Can someone please help me??? I started on this brake bleeding process @ 11:00pm last night and gave up @ 7:00am this morning and out here @ it again.

Thanks,

James

 

Did you bleed in the correct order: RR, LR, RF, LF?

When I upgraded to the SS lines, I used just about an entire 32oz. bottle just to all the bubbles out of the RR (the first caliper I bleed), but after that the other 3 went a lot faster.

Don't know what to tell you about the gurgling. I'm never around the master cylinder when I bleeding.

 

did u try bench bleeding the master cylinder before you bled the brakes? while you had the system open you could of ran the m/c out of fluid....

 

Yep if your master cylinder got too low you got fluid in it and you wont be able to bleed it. Then you have to take it to the dealer and have them bleed the ABS unit..

 

if everything checks out good it maybe your master cylinder going bad. to check pinch off fluid to each wheel by clamping off the rubber line to the all the calipers.
the brake pedal should be stiff, it shouldnt move. if it does the fluid is passing the rear seal and leaking outside or inside the booster

 

keep me updated

 

Well here goes fellows, I'm a dumbass!!!! When I took off the calipers to paint them, I turned them upside down to paint them....right?? Well when the caliper is being tossed around while being painted, the fluid runs out so it's dry...if you will. Well you have to prime the calipers so to speak.....fill the caliper with a turkey baster or bleed the caliper with the bleed screw ttt. The brake line banjo fitting is between the two caliper pistons, so when you try and bleed the brakes, the "top" piston has air in it and the bottom piston has fluid. So when you bleed the brake system, you will get fluid out of the caliper(a full stream) even though the top piston is dry. This will still give you a spungy feeling even though your getting solid(no air bubbles)fluid out of the bleed screw. Does this make any sense???? I'm trying to explain this the best and the most understanding way I can. So anyways after hours of pulling my hair out, I finally figured the problem out. Went and test drove my truck and what f....... difference!!! I would suggest anyone to get bigger brakes and sst lines. Hope this info helps!!

Thanks for all of ya'lls input!!!!

James

 

Also, the washers that came with the brake kit, they didn't seal right for some reason. I noticed when I was bleeding the brake system, the banjo fitting was leaking @ the caliper. I ran to the auto parts store and got some copper washers, used them instead of the steel or aluminum washers that came with the kit. Also, the directions said to run the hoses simular to the factory routed lines. Well, I will leave this one alone.....

James

 

It sounds like you put the calipers on the wrong side of the truck. You need to have the bleeder screw on top of caliper when installed, sounds like you have them on the bottom.

 

Read my first...wait second sentence.....I'm a dumbass!!!LOL!!!

James