I already have VAS traction bars and some 15x28" MT's. 2" drop shackles and rear blocks removed. The rest of the suspension is bone stock. I was thinking about doing some rear shock relocators with some adjustable shocks. Would that help with the traction issues? The truck is just destroying the new DRs on the street, even from a roll.

 

Good shocks may help but with lots of power nothing is going to grip on the streets.

Maybe add another 1,000lbs to the bed to really get the rear end to sit down lol.

It seems most guys buy as many cheap junker tires as they can because they know they won't last more than few thousand miles.

 

Maybe I should put my hitch and spare tire back on.

 

Get a piece of 3/8 steel plate cut out to fit tight between the wheel wells and the tailgate drill out some holes to bolt it down tight to the bed if not enough extra weight to help get the tires to stick you can always get some extra plate tacked to it or drill it as well to add or remove weight as needed basically like putting sandbags in the trunk

 

I'll never understand the thought process of adding weight to the rear of a car for traction purposes.

Put some suspension under it that works and go faster.

 

Yea you'll lose a little speed with the weight but it's alot cheaper for a some extra traction and if it's not a full blown race truck the little bit of speed you'll lose probably won't even hardly even be noticeable without seeing time slips

 

Don't get me wrong I'd rather have a full suspension setup I'm sure we all would

 

No doubt I understand what you are saying.......but when stock suspension (and I mean stock) 4500+lb trucks can 60 in the 1.5x's with power and some good tires........I just can't see the point. Back in the day there where some N/A guys with 60's in the 1.7 or faster range as well. Some simple things like making sure everything is where it is supposed to be can go a long way.

It cracks me up when I see guys with 300 rwhp trucks bitching about traction issues on the race track.

If I had to guess, the most common issue is with dropped trucks. People do flip kits without c-notches, run stupid shock angles, have driveshaft angles that are fucked up, have garbage shocks and probably a host of other **** that doesn't lend itself to allowing the suspension "work".

I'm always down to help someone get their stuff lined out even if I have to go to the track with them (which I obviously don't mind since I like going to the track). It amazes some, how the littlest things can make the biggest difference whether it be chassis or ecm tuning.

My philosophy regarding building/driving/performance evaluating your ride (whether you do the work yourself and need help, or are paying someone to do the mods and you still need help) is that I don't condone taking performance away from one part of the ride and giving it to another. Some well placed dollars (and it doesn't have to be much in most cases) and time should be able to benefit the program from the staging beams to the lights. This philosophy, almost 100% of the time, makes owning and driving the vehicle that much more enjoyable. Which is the entire reason we do this **** in the first place.

 

Are you talking about my truck? Lol.

 

I don't think so. lol

I was just speaking in generalities. Not specific to any one person or group on here. Just giving a gentle opinion on how I like to do things. Which, as no surprise to anyone, doesn't mean it works for everyone.

I'm not a "one way to skin a cat" kind of guy, but I do things a certain way with the acknowledgment that others do it different and can get the same results.

Thats the true glory of hot rodding.