When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Richard, I've thought about that. Would they be safe if I had them welded ~1" above the frame rail? I think they sit about 1" below right now, inside the OEM shock mount. Gussets across the top of the frame connected to the bracket probably wouldn't hurt either.
I believe they're currently set at 6, any less and the front end starts to bob 2-3 times after going over bumps.
So when you say too stiff what do you mean? If it bounces a lot I would call that too soft. Are you sure the shock is in the middle of its travel and isn't hitting the bumpstop too early?
Typed up a reply and posted it, no idea where it went.
By too stiff, I mean it isn't pleasant on harsh road transitions (rail crossings, bridge transitions, rough pavement, etc). Shakes the whole interior of the truck, feels like you're going to break the damn thing. That's with the 22s in summer, my winter 17s aren't as bad.
Shock is at 11.25" ride height and not hitting bumpstops anymore since raising from a 10-3/8" ride height.
We did have a conversation about this via email back in August. I never did put much thought into removing the OEM shock mounts, raising up your brackets and welding them onto the frame. This would allow a longer shock and a softer spring, making for a more comfortable ride?
Not sure why you were having an issue posting before...
Im assuming you have the DS303? What springs do you have?
You are measure the ride height between the mounting points on the shock (top and bottom bolt), yes? Do you have the upgraded bearings?
Im not sure I know what you mean by shakes the truck, does it sound like its bottoming out or is it just bouncing you around everywhere? Increasing the shock settings will help in both cases, if you are at 6 I would bump it up to 12. I found on mine anything below 9 or 10 was too soft and would bounce too much.
If you want to go to a longer shock, using the stud top and bushing (picture in post #203) would be a lot easier than cutting off the perch on welding on the bracket.
Ride height measured from middle of top and bottom bolts. Upgraded bearings used.
Shakes the truck as in it felt like the shock/spring was replace with a solid piece of metal. Just very very harsh with the 22s. This was with the shock setting at 12-15.
6 seems to be perfect as it doesn't bounce and it's not *too* stiff most of the time.
How much longer of a shock could I use if I went with the stud top mount? I'd like to run a shock that would allow me a 800-900lb spring, and I'm pretty sure I'd have to run the DS501 for that...
So started tonight with my swap and spent most of my time hacking out the torsion bar crossmember and other junk. When I got to start installing the upper on the driver side I noticed it doesnt seem to fit super flush. heres some pics.
Should I just drill the hole and use the bolts to pull it in tight when I tighten them?
02-25-2016, 09:50 AM
