4l60e yank torque converter install question
#1
4l60e yank torque converter install question
Long time lurker here which has helped fuel my current situation....
Current situation is that I am swapping a 2004 LQ4 into my 2006 regular cab that had a 4.8. LQ4 received a 224/228 cam, springs, and LS3 injectors. I also have a Yank PT 3600...and that is what I have a question about.
So when I was installing the converter I was listening for the clunks and making sure it was sunk past the face of the transmission housing. I made the mistake of reading all the horror stories of people installing the converter wrong and busting the pump. Well, I have already bolted up the trans and the engine is bolted in so I pulled the inspection cover on the trans to check things out. Yank says anything from 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch is acceptable for the gap between the converter and the flexplate. I've read that this gap is the tell all sign as to if you installed it correctly or not. When I swapped the flexplates from the 4.8 to the 6.0 I don't recall removing the spacer that I read about on the 6.0 but from the look of things everything appears to be good? What do you guys think?
Current situation is that I am swapping a 2004 LQ4 into my 2006 regular cab that had a 4.8. LQ4 received a 224/228 cam, springs, and LS3 injectors. I also have a Yank PT 3600...and that is what I have a question about.
So when I was installing the converter I was listening for the clunks and making sure it was sunk past the face of the transmission housing. I made the mistake of reading all the horror stories of people installing the converter wrong and busting the pump. Well, I have already bolted up the trans and the engine is bolted in so I pulled the inspection cover on the trans to check things out. Yank says anything from 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch is acceptable for the gap between the converter and the flexplate. I've read that this gap is the tell all sign as to if you installed it correctly or not. When I swapped the flexplates from the 4.8 to the 6.0 I don't recall removing the spacer that I read about on the 6.0 but from the look of things everything appears to be good? What do you guys think?
#2
I think the space is about 3/8 inch. I used a 3/8 drill bit to test. (Thanks CircleD for that great tip!)
From your pic, it looks good.
Smarter people need to chime in though.
From your pic, it looks good.
Smarter people need to chime in though.
#3
I agree with you in both that I think it is ok but I also would like to see what "smarter" people think.
#4
3/8 is a ton of clearance. That's not typical. You want it around an 1/8. I want to say the typical recommended clearance is .187 with the converter bottomed. With that much pull out the converter Will probably barely be driving the pump. The converter company can vary the build height a tad. Is this an ls transmission? You need to washer that clearance up. You Will Need a caliper to measure some fat washers and make sure they are the same thickness.
#6
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Put washers on it, you want 1/8th of clearance. I destroyed a transmission because of clearance issues. When you go to install the washers, I super glued them to the flex plate to hold them. May not have been the best idea, but it helped. Its a tight squeeze to install a washers on a 60e.
#7
Put washers on it, you want 1/8th of veggieclearance. I destroyed a transmission because of clearance issues. When you go to install the washers, I super glued them to the flex plate to hold them. May not have been the best idea, but it helped. Its a tight squeeze to install a washers on a 60e.
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#8
Thanks guys for the info. I will make sure to measure the clearance before I bolt it all up and if need be install washers.
However, I have ran into another problem. I went to turn the engine over by hand via the crank bolt and the engine wont turn over. It wont even wiggle right or left. Funny thing is that it did turn over just fine after the cam/spring install and the only thing I have done since then was install crank pully/bolt and install the 4L60E flexplate. I had a guy suggest that since the 4L80E/LQ4 combo had a spacer on the crank that by removing the spacer and reusing those bolts they may be too long and may be hitting something internally. I am in the middle of removing these bolts to see if it will spin after I remove them.
You guys ever hear about anything like this?
Kinda annoying cause I am so close, I just need to bolt the converter up, starter, and then plug in all the sensors and I am ready to go!
Thanks again guys for the info! Hope you all had a great Christmas!
However, I have ran into another problem. I went to turn the engine over by hand via the crank bolt and the engine wont turn over. It wont even wiggle right or left. Funny thing is that it did turn over just fine after the cam/spring install and the only thing I have done since then was install crank pully/bolt and install the 4L60E flexplate. I had a guy suggest that since the 4L80E/LQ4 combo had a spacer on the crank that by removing the spacer and reusing those bolts they may be too long and may be hitting something internally. I am in the middle of removing these bolts to see if it will spin after I remove them.
You guys ever hear about anything like this?
Kinda annoying cause I am so close, I just need to bolt the converter up, starter, and then plug in all the sensors and I am ready to go!
Thanks again guys for the info! Hope you all had a great Christmas!
#10
I used my dished 4.8 flexplate and removed the spacer from the 6.0 but I honestly do not know which bolts I used. I incorrectly assumed that they were the same plus it was like 4am so I honestly don't know what bolts are in it. I will compare them to the other ones I have laying around. Hopefully it will be as easy as swapping bolts.