4l60e gurus inside
Jun 7, 2007 | 09:20 AM
#1
4l60e gurus inside
Correct me if i am wrong... but if I manually shift I get much more positive engagement and less slip. So... I looked it up and it appears the manual apply chart uses the low/ reverse clutch and the forward cluth where the "in drive" apply only uses the forward clutch...Any thoughts?
BTW i like spinning into second as opposed to yawning waiting on the shift to happen and yes I know I am gonna bust this
BTW i like spinning into second as opposed to yawning waiting on the shift to happen and yes I know I am gonna bust this
Jun 7, 2007 | 09:56 AM
#3
Originally Posted by Moddoo
I'm surprised you don't like yopur 1-2 shift with the vette servo.
It should easily bark them (automatically) with a small change in the tune.
It should easily bark them (automatically) with a small change in the tune.
Jun 11, 2007 | 11:33 PM
#7
That extra clutch pack is only preventing overrun. That means it is just providing extra holding power for the sprag. If anything at all you're saving the sprag, not the forward clutch pack. The forward clutches are doing the exact same amount of work in manual first or just drive. I doubt this is what you wanted to hear.
Keep this little bit of 4L60-E trivia in the back of your mind for if you DO blow the sprag. All the itty bitty exploded pieces usually stay captive in there the way it's made and don't circulate throughout the transmission. Sometimes you can engage manual first and actually move the truck forward with the low/reverse overrun clutches. This clutch pack can barely hold any torque at all but it's usually enough to limp it home if close, or onto a trailer.
Keep this little bit of 4L60-E trivia in the back of your mind for if you DO blow the sprag. All the itty bitty exploded pieces usually stay captive in there the way it's made and don't circulate throughout the transmission. Sometimes you can engage manual first and actually move the truck forward with the low/reverse overrun clutches. This clutch pack can barely hold any torque at all but it's usually enough to limp it home if close, or onto a trailer.
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Jun 12, 2007 | 12:10 AM
#8
I was snooping around LS1 dot com (the other board) yesterday and here is a quote from one of the trans postings:
Man shift it or leave it in D
Q.
A.
sounds plausible...like James B. was saying
Man shift it or leave it in D
Q.
When at the track I always leave it in drive and let the computer take care of the rest, but I keep getting ppl, mainly the old school guys, telling me I should put it in first and man shift it up to drive ? They say it is ez'er on my tranny, just looking for your guys 2 cents...btw I have tryed it and it seems like the computer takes over anyways ?
If you are going to let it shift on its own, use "OD" not "D". This will prevent the overrun clutch from robbing 2-3 shift oil on the 2-3 shift. When you use "D", the overrun clutch comes on on the 2-3 shift taking away oil from 3-4 clutch apply. Either manually shift it, which uses the overrun clutch on all three positions 1, 2, 3, thereby not robbing any of the 3-4 clutch apply oil. The overrun clutch is not on & never comes on in the "OD" position. Same for the 700R4.
Jun 12, 2007 | 06:50 AM
#9
Originally Posted by James B.
Keep this little bit of 4L60-E trivia in the back of your mind for if you DO blow the sprag. All the itty bitty exploded pieces usually stay captive in there the way it's made and don't circulate throughout the transmission. Sometimes you can engage manual first and actually move the truck forward with the low/reverse overrun clutches. This clutch pack can barely hold any torque at all but it's usually enough to limp it home if close, or onto a trailer.
Ask me how I know!
Now, if I can just figure out what I'm missing to get the TC to lock, I'd be set. Yeah... logged my drive to work, and found the TCC mode stays "off".
But, that's another thread. 