4l60e converter problems
#1
4l60e converter problems
I posted awhile back on this issue. I have done everything I can think to do minus pulling the trans.
Problem: performabuilt lvl1 prostreet.
85,000 miles give or take. Decided to start kicking 1870 code.
I have changed fluid and filter. I have pulled the codes. The fluid was good and no material in the pan. Contacted performabuilt about the TCC. I was told that it is removed with the changes they make in the build. The converter will still lock out but won't stay engaged and keeps kicking 1870 code.
Should I replace the converter or replace the valve body?
Help me out fellas.
Problem: performabuilt lvl1 prostreet.
85,000 miles give or take. Decided to start kicking 1870 code.
I have changed fluid and filter. I have pulled the codes. The fluid was good and no material in the pan. Contacted performabuilt about the TCC. I was told that it is removed with the changes they make in the build. The converter will still lock out but won't stay engaged and keeps kicking 1870 code.
Should I replace the converter or replace the valve body?
Help me out fellas.
#3
All of my shifts are still good. It is only lockup that's giving me problems. The converter disengages when there is a load like going up a slight grade after interstate driving. It's like the clutch is getting hot and breaking loose. As soon as it does it kicks a code.
#4
Pull the pan, when the lining goes on the converter it can plug the filter and contaminate everything. With an upgraded valve that they put in it bypasses the Pwm converter apply. That bore in the vb can still wear out. With 85k miles on it is possible. If the fluid is clean I would start at the solenoid then vb.
#5
It's slightly possible the band or 3-4 clutch is slipping. .. I believe it would still set a code for that 1870. The newer 60's with the input shaft speed sensor can measure input skip vs engine rpm more accurately. Does it stay slipping and rpm s rising or just like the converter unlocked?
#6
There is no fluctuation in rpm in 4th gear. Everything else seems normal. Before it kicked the 1870 code the first time..... it would lock out hard enough that it was like I had a 5 speed instead of a 4 speed. Since then you can't feel it lock out. You can only tell by the change in exhaust pitch when it pulls the rpm down the extra 2-300 rpm. I have read about the valve body issue but wanted some more input before I went that route. Because I have a new filter and fluid I didn't want to drop the pan again unless I had too.