Turbo Guys, help a brother out.
01-29-2011, 01:43 PM
#11
Valve train
Ideally I'd like to have Pat G spec me a cam but if it is not in the budget I will just buy a LS6 cam. Smart idea? What timing chain & gears are you 500rwhp guys running, LS2? How do you pick out valve springs for a F/I engine? Does it differ compared to a N/A motor or just go by cam lift?
Ideally I'd like to have Pat G spec me a cam but if it is not in the budget I will just buy a LS6 cam. Smart idea? What timing chain & gears are you 500rwhp guys running, LS2? How do you pick out valve springs for a F/I engine? Does it differ compared to a N/A motor or just go by cam lift?
I'm curious about what kind of timing chain recommendations you get, surprised that nobody has offered their .02 on that one yet. I'd think that the LS2 chain would be adequate, but I'm just guessing.
One piece of advice, don't cut corners as it will always cost you more in the long run
01-29-2011, 02:19 PM
#13
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You need to look at lift, how aggressive the cam lobes are, and how high you plan to spin it. Guys always look at lift limitations of springs, but often forget that aggressive cam lobes and higher RPM's require more seat pressure to keep the valves from bouncing off of the seats. If going with the LS6 cam, I'd run the yellow LS6 springs, which have 90# of closed seat pressure. If you go with a TR or TSP cam (TSP uses Comp XER lobes), I'd go with either PAC 1218 or 1518 springs...or duals if you go real crazy with the cam, but I don't believe that turbo apps require crazy cams (although I could be wrong, I'm not an FI guy by any means). BTW, the PAC 1218's have 130# of closed seat pressure, and Crane duals have something like 160# IIRC (not 100% sure on the Cranes).
I'm curious about what kind of timing chain recommendations you get, surprised that nobody has offered their .02 on that one yet. I'd think that the LS2 chain would be adequate, but I'm just guessing.
One piece of advice, don't cut corners as it will always cost you more in the long run
I'm curious about what kind of timing chain recommendations you get, surprised that nobody has offered their .02 on that one yet. I'd think that the LS2 chain would be adequate, but I'm just guessing.
One piece of advice, don't cut corners as it will always cost you more in the long run
Does 130#'s of seat pressure (springs) hurt you if you are using a wimpy low lift cam? Or will it help with the stress of the turbo? I was thinking about going with dual springs just for the security.
Questions, I am full of them.
01-29-2011, 05:08 PM
#14
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At 10psi, leave the hardware bone stock. Don't mess with rod bolts, the stock pistons/rings will fail before the bolts. The upmost important thing with a boosted motor is the tune, you can built the motor to the moon, but with a tune that isn't up to par, it can fail with 4psi, whereas foose04 is pushing his bone stock 4.8 with over 15psi + nitrous and it is taking it. What year 80e are do you have? As long as it is newer than a 96, it will be ok, just make sure you get the correct rebuild kit, there are some differences throughout the years.
01-29-2011, 09:26 PM
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At 10psi, leave the hardware bone stock. Don't mess with rod bolts, the stock pistons/rings will fail before the bolts. The upmost important thing with a boosted motor is the tune, you can built the motor to the moon, but with a tune that isn't up to par, it can fail with 4psi, whereas foose04 is pushing his bone stock 4.8 with over 15psi + nitrous and it is taking it. What year 80e are do you have? As long as it is newer than a 96, it will be ok, just make sure you get the correct rebuild kit, there are some differences throughout the years.
01-31-2011, 10:43 PM
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You are right. I should just install new rod bolts and head studs to not have to worry (as much).
Beaumont area. You?
I do not plan on pushing it past 10 psi but you know how that goes. I am sure i am going to want more. I was planning on buying rods and pistons after I get the truck running good just to prepare for a rebuild.
Beaumont area. You?
I do not plan on pushing it past 10 psi but you know how that goes. I am sure i am going to want more. I was planning on buying rods and pistons after I get the truck running good just to prepare for a rebuild.
01-31-2011, 11:08 PM
#17
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cool deal i was born in pa as well. i live in nederland. pm me the next time you come to evadale. i try to go whenever the old lady lets me
02-01-2011, 06:25 AM
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ok.. hate racing during the summer but most likely that is the next time i'll be able to get down there for a week or so.. have some small things me and my friend are gonna tinker with like this icebox resevoiur ive had for the past 6 months lol.. gonna have to replumb my whole a/w intercooler setup im afraid cause i want the resevour in the bed of my truck. i'm hoping a 15 lb block of ice will be enough to fool this truck into thinking it's winter in the middle of the 90-102f summer hehe
02-01-2011, 08:26 PM
#20
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Im running the same thing as your wanting. no rod bolts, heads are studded, dual valve springs, cam and 12lbs with e85. Its all in the tune and like stated before pistons on the lq4 will be the first thing to fail. I would ic it since your in Texas it gets hot here, and ic's are cheap on ebay.