I will be starting the motor w/ turbo for the first time tonight, and I thought I would get some direct info from you guys instead of the search engines. What oil weight/ viscosity **that is available from the local parts store** are you running? I have some O'Reilly's 10w/40 synthetic "high mileage" formula that I was going to use, at least for initial startup.

What wastegate spring should I start with? It is a Precision 46mm. Yellow spring = 3psi, red spring = 6psi. With the boost controller I can go up to 6psi/ 12psi, respectively. I have the red spring in there now, was considering leaving it.

Like any motor that's been apart, I plan to leave coil packs disconnected and crank the motor over for a little bit, to get oil to the turbo. I'll let it idle, check for leaks, check fuel pressure, listen for strange noises, vacuum leaks, check trans fluid in park, etc. I have a base sd tune from my tuner, so I'm confident it should at least idle.

Anything else I'm possibly missing?

 

I just use 10W 30 Pennzoil with a k&n filter...kind of something that I first did when I knew nothing about the truck 3 years ago when I bought it, and it hasn't let me down yet. 4.8l, 178000 miles, 15lbs of boost, spin it to 7000rpm regularly.

If you don't know the quality of the base tune, I'm not sure I'd put the 6lbs spring it in. I, for example, started with a 4.5lb spring and tuned, moved to 9lb spring, tuned, moved to 12lb spring, tuned, and now I'm at 15lbs.

In general, you can drive a turbo vehicle without going into boost however you'll have to be mindful of how much throttle you're giving it and at what load. (Sorry if im insulting your intelligence, just trying to help) Example, you get into boost easier in OD with 40% throttle than you would in 1st gear with 40% throttle.

Remember, you just spent all this time and money doing a turbo kit. It would suck to jump the gun and run the truck hard on a "base tune" with too much boost.

Just my .02....understand the excitement lol

 

And I do NOT use synthetic oil in my truck FWIW

 

lycoming, no insult ever taken. I will install the yellow spring tonight, I was thinking about doing that anyways. On the oil, I'm surprised about the dino oil... but then again the oil discussion is never ending. Every single person likely runs a different oil. My only rule is it must be available at the parts store, no Joe Gibbs racing oil. Anyone else?

 

I've always ran Pennzoil platinum 5/30.... Parts store (Orileys) usually has it on sale for $32 with a Wix filter, and you get a $10 mail in rebate! Can't beat it, I've been doing that for years! I also always use a quart of Lucas synthetic with each oil change.

 

A lot of people I know with turbo LS cars around here run 20w50 valvoline vr1. Its also available at oriellys, that's what I plan on running with a wix filter

 

Heres 11 pages of exactly what you need.


https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...tricks-501958/

 

Rotella t6 5w-40

Nothing special on start up, just turn key and let idle for a while.

Start with lighest WG spring.

 

wix filter

turbo vehicles break oil down so most will run a heavier weight oil, being in CA i recommend a 15w40 rotella is very popular

cocaine fired up with vr1 20w50, my crewcab will probably fire up with Vr1 10w30 if they have it{havent checked yet}

as for gate spring this all depends on who is tuning the combo, if you are start off small so you can learn how to tune for boost, if taking to someone who has a clue then set it up for target power and base spring off that

 

Since this is a new engine, I recommend changing the filter and oil after about 15 minutes of idle and "around the block like grandma" type of driving. Any regular dino oil is fine for the first little bit. After that 15 minute cycle put in some good stuff with a zinc additive and give it some higher rpms (4-5k) (with very little boost, 3psi is good) to seat the rings. Aggressive city driving is best at this.