Sensor 2 is just for monitoring cat converter performance. They aren't used for fueling calculations. Don't think the lean codes are oil related unless it has damaged the sensor 1 O2s or cats.

Nowhere that unmetered air can get into the intake now? Is your fuel pressure steady?

I'm just running a Moroso breather tank off both valve covers(baffled LSX) as well. Don't see anything in it except aqueous condensate. When I ran catch cans mine drank oil too. Severe with non-baffled, fabbed covers.

 

The check valve is just the pcv port. You can remove it and put the peep sight back in and then you have a fully functioning breather can. Both of my valve covers run to the can and vent through the filter. The only difference with MM's pcv can and open can is the extra pcv fitting in one of the 3 ports. Or am I mistaken?

 

OP, any update on the build?

 

Nothing new. The check engine light did go away. Hopefully it stays off. The oil smell is fairly intense without the pcv system.
Going to change the oil tomorrow and monitor it closely to see if the truck is burning oil. If so thats probably why the truck is knocking at low boost.

 

going to buy a meth kit for the truck. Is there a kit that works best for our trucks? Mine is 09. Looks like snow,alky,devils, are the most popular.

 

We sell the Devils own.
Many like alky and a few use snow.

We send dual nozzles. With the Devils own.

 

What about AEM 30-3300?

 

This is my first time reading through ur thread. I feel ur pain bud! i had a few issues when i started put to. I started with email upload tunes but couldn't stand waiting for an updated tune. Fortunately i had to buy hp tuners just to log and upload my tunes. My inpatients grew so i learned the basics and ended up tuning it on my own. My truck worked like **** because it thought it was pulling knock retard in low to mid rpm. I turned off any knock retard at low to mid rpm and only let it pull knock when it was in boost at higher rpm. I know ur not tuning it ur self yet but once you get these issues sorted out the truck should hall *** at 10 or 12 psi. I finally got my truck on a dyno after an entire summer of driving and tuning and found disappointing results that i was able to improve on. The dyno is the place for faster more accurate tuning. I spent 3 hours with 21 dyno pulls and made some big improvements just by tuning on the dyno. i would have never been able to know by street tuning that it was tuned as well as it could be. I wouldn't get over concerned with the catch can set up n smell right now. As long as ur valve covers are vented and valley pan, if it has a vent,u will be fine for now. There are a few very effective ways to set up a great pcv system but don't stress about that right now. U will have to be patient and work on getting the truck to run right. There is no need for methanol unless u plan to run more than 12# of boost. If ur willing to spend the money on a good methanol set up just save that money and get a reputable dyno shop to sort out ur issues. Thats just my opinion. ill keep watching ur thread to see how u make out. Good luck bud!

 

Double check all ur grounds n make sure they are clean. A bad ground can cause some weird **** to happen. I had to add another ground from my engine to my cab for some strange reason. Everything seemed to work fine last year. Little did i know til now that some of my sensors were not reading correct because of this.

 

What are some good places to run grounds to? Its cheap so I might as well add a few to make sure the truck is grounded properly.

I have been going back and forth on purchasing tuning software HP or EFI but not sure I will have the patience to learn. Don't want to spend $500 just to have it sit in the garage because its to complicated for me.