FORCED INDUCTION Turbos | Superchargers | Intercoolers | H2O/Meth Injection

still have fuel pressure issue with radix kit, after installing new pump setup!

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Old 03-01-2006, 12:40 PM
  #51  
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lol, service tech's? dealership? come on now, since when does a service tech at a dealership know anything? if he did...... he'd be working somewhere where he can actually make money, around here dealership tech's don't get paid, so they're not good. ( no offence to service tech's, that's just the general rule of thumb in this region, dealership = no results ) there's nothing left to be looked at. Tell me what to look at, and i'll look. i'm not a moron, i know how to do much more complicated things than this blower install. i've doublechecked it 3 times now, and nothing is off from the directions, i've talked to everyone and their mother, and...... yes, other people have physically looked at it. everything is right, according to the directions, and standard mechanics. Tell me something else that people usually over look, and i'll double check it again. But as of right now, you aren't telling me ****. what am i to tell a tech to look for?

all the tried, true and trusted tech's i've talked to, say the returnless fuel system is to blame, and to tune around it. i'm suspect of that, because i believe what you're saying about the fact that you're having no fuel pressure issues with your intank pump. But, i'm not the only person having this problem.
Old 03-01-2006, 01:07 PM
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LoudAzzLoStepside,
I have a few questions that might lead you to some answers.

What rpm at WOT does your truck shift at?
When mine was shifting at 6400rpm I was also runing out of fuel.
I have shifting at 6100rpm now.

Have you checked your fuel pump voltage at WOT?
I have an 2005 truck with a RADIX and 3.0 pulley of course,
The Engine Computer (VCM) controlls the Alternator output and sometimes
my truck will go into fuel economy mode which reduces the Alternator output
to 12.3 vdc instead of the normal 14.6vdc.

To solve my running out of fuel problem (injectors over 100%, and AFR's going
above 12.5) I installed a Optima battery and the MAGNA-VOLT sold by Magnacharger (it increases the fuel pump voltage to 17vdc @ 20amps)
Now I can run AFR's of 11.8 all the up to 6100rpm which is where I have my truck shifting at.

I hope this is of some help
Old 03-01-2006, 01:18 PM
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this is what i was thinking. certain local tuners in my area, with much forced induction expertise, say this can be tuned around, because injector duty cycle is relative, to fuel pressure, etc...etc... so it's not truly over-extended.

the voltage booster, for the alternator issue sounds like a really good fix. But is there just a way to keep the alternator from dropping voltage?
Old 03-01-2006, 01:37 PM
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I'm not sure what parameters evoke this economy mode, I have found nothing in HPTuners, but my Owners Manual talks a bought the Voltage Gauge
Fluctuations due to this Economy mode and that it’s normal.

It makes no since to me on how or why it works like this:
Sometimes at idle or cruise with AC and lights on It goes from 14.5vdc to
12.5vdc for no apparent reason.
sometimes I'll have nothing on, no AC, no lights ,no radio at cruise with a 12.5vdc but when I come to a stop at idle it will creep back up to 14.5vdc.

I have commanded thru HPTuners the A/C compressor and Fans on trying to figure out what causes this and have not come to any conclusions.
Old 03-01-2006, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Since you've replaced darn near everything mechanical. How about something electrical. I read the post about a loose ground. Can you verify you are keeping 12-14 volts to the pump?

Old 03-01-2006, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado

well.... not real sure how to do this, under a load situation. ideas? besides a dyno, since i don't have one laying around.
Old 03-01-2006, 11:38 PM
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Not sure of the correct way (if there is one) but if it was me...I would take the 2 leads from my multimeter and screw them onto the posts of the fuel pump, run the wires/meter into the cab and go for a ride. You don't have to necessarily stomp on it, just see if there is fluctuation at all. If I understand the pump correctly you should have steady voltage no matter what RPM or speed you're at.
Old 03-02-2006, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
Not sure of the correct way (if there is one) but if it was me...I would take the 2 leads from my multimeter and screw them onto the posts of the fuel pump, run the wires/meter into the cab and go for a ride. You don't have to necessarily stomp on it, just see if there is fluctuation at all. If I understand the pump correctly you should have steady voltage no matter what RPM or speed you're at.

yeah, i was thinking the same thing, voltage shouldn't vary ever with this system. maybe i can get one of my friends to hang on to the driveshaft?
Old 03-02-2006, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by LoudAzzLoStepside
yeah, i was thinking the same thing, voltage shouldn't vary ever with this system. maybe i can get one of my friends to hang on to the driveshaft?
If so, they definitely deserve the title "friend".
Old 03-02-2006, 04:01 PM
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Well, i've just now taken the time to read this thread. With my radix and returnless system I saw 62-63psi at idle and 50-52psi at WOT. We just tuned around it I guess. Never really considered it a problem
I am really unsure what I am going to do with the new set-up needing almost twice the fuel


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