Thats It !!I have to give mine a couple of pumps on the petal espically on cold starts ...but i pretty much have to prime mine everytime after not driving it 30 minutes or so ...i find it it easier to hit the key on once - turn it off-then again to start seems to help the best ...just thought somoene had come up with creative solution for this i can live with it its a small price to pay for an 11 second ECSB

 

key on/key off cycling a few times does nothing for me. Tapping the gas a little helps. It's pretty irritating but nothing more than that, yet. Oh, I have the Walbro intank that came with my 112. It's 5 years old.

 

I have similar Start problem thats being discussed; I believe my problem stems from the factory relay that my pump is wired to – it seems this factory relay only allows a few seconds from key-on to its own Auto-Off, this brief shot of power does not give my system enough time to fully charge the injectors, (I’m running an out-of-tank Aeromotive A1000 pump, Aeromotive A1000-6 regulator with -10 AN braided line to the fuel rails and a bulkhead fitting to the inter-tank pickup line all controlled via their 16306 fuel pump controller).

My present Start solution is to twist Key-on at least 2 times before I twist thru to Start (Key-on 3 times works best). Now if we could just tune the factory relay to stay on for say – 15 seconds all would be smiles.

My point is – if your using the stock relay you simply may not be getting enough initial time to charge the fuel system with Key-on and twist to Start. Try the above, it works for me and may work for you.

Hardy Handshakes, 40Mike, aka Swede

2005 SBSC Silverado, with new Made in USA second generation 427 ci iron LSx, huffed with a TVS 2300 Maggie plus a host of other go-good goodies (this is my re-purposed Hot Rod Mag’s Drag Week 2010 entry for this coming September…)

 

For people with bosche pumps, I used this. http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=226
It's a little bit expensive, but my truck starts like stock every time, and it made it easier to find a hose fitting also.

 

When I did my twin walbros I used -6 steel braided hose coming off the pumps going into a T and some hose clamps. Ive seen someone try using regular rubber gas hose on twin in tank pumps before and the results were not great. Regular rubber gas hose from a parts store does not have the same liner on the inside of the hose as the outside causing the hose to swell up on the outside of it when it was submerged in the gas causing the hose to slip off the pump. Just some info for yall

 

Who is tuning your truck? You can always have someone mess with the fuel prime in the crank/start tables.

 

Mine did this, sort of, less than a week after the install. In the beginning it was quiet, stayed primed, perfect. Then it got loud, and wouldn't stay primed, so I took it back out. The hose was so stretched out I could get 3 fingers into 3/8" 300 psi hose. I replaced it with stainless braided hose also, and moved the sock down, and filed a grove in the sock fitting to keep it from sucking against the pump.

 

NAPA sells a fuel line kit just for this purpose. It's a submergible fuel line, I think it cost $25-$30 dollars for a one foot piece.

 

I can't find it at NAPA, but I found it here so you know what I'm talking about.

 

I have the same problem and have to "key over" the ignition a couple times before starting. I think its due to either a leak or bad check valve. I'm about to pull the tank again and check this out. It makes a very aggravating daily driver! lol