Gadgetized

iTrader: (9)

X2 on the bypass valve, pulley size, and if you are running an underdrive pulley on the crank. I am not familiar with the 1900 bypass valves, but I would assume they are the same as the 112. Unhook the hose while it is running, and it should make the blower whine. If it doesn't, function the lever with your hand.

pewterliftedz

iTrader: (4)

ohh and these blowers do not whine unless u mod the snout for a smaller pulley. and even then they r still pretty quiet.

TX Tahoe Z71

iTrader: (28)

In for result

jdgoodcat

I'm runnin 6.5 psi and mine doesn't make winning noise. What condition is your tensioner in? If good I'm going with bypass valve.. Good luck. Keep us posted

TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

Mine whines

Not like the 112 but it aint quiet .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwAppstDPWc

tallbluslpr

Look man its prob. the bypass before you freak out or pull the blower just determine the direction the bypass is closed if you have trouble open your throttle body and look in you can see it. Work valve by hand with the line off and shut it zip tie it shut plug vacum line and go for a drive see what happens. If u are looking for boost sitting still and flashing the throttle its not going to show much boost so drive it to check boost.

terravast4

iTrader: (25)

Is your crank pulley pinned?

bluewheelz

Info: I pinned the crank during install and threw in an ARP balancer bolt. Other than a Volant box and a Magnaflow muffler, this thing is bone stock.
stock pulley on supercharger, factory tensioner, same belt that came with the kit (seems to be correct, as I have to spin the tensioner most of the way around to get the belt on)

I have tried removing the vacuum line, plugging it and driving around, didn't make any difference. I didn't, however, wire tie the bypass valve in the closed position. I will be trying that soon. I assume that I should build boost with the vacuum disconnected (valve closed) Is it possible for the valve to just open up on it's own when pressure builds up?

I also tried some belt dressing which made the belt sticky as hell, but I didn't feel any additional power. I am ordering a boost gauge and a wideband Air/Fuel gauge to watch this thing while I am making changes. Since it is tuned for 2 lbs right now, I want to make sure I'm running lean at WOT.

One of the required mods to get this thing to work was to get a 2008 Silverado water pump. I picked the pump up at AutoZone and the f'n pulley came off of the water pump after about 5 miles of driving. They gave me another one a few days ago and the pulley fell off of that one too. I just ordered an OEM rig (for $25 more) and should get that tomorrow. Once I get the water pump issue resolved, back to the drawing board.

Thank you guys for all of the input. I am working two jobs right now (like a dog) so I am not always able to check in every day.

bluewheelz

Also, it holds the 2 lbs til about 5k RPM, then it goes up to about 5 lbs. The stock supercharger pulley is slick as ice. Has anyone tried sandblasting a pulley to keep it from slipping? Obviously the belt would wear quicker, but it might be worth it.

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

What elevation are you at? A 1900 on a 6l not gonna make a lot of boost anyway with a 3.3 pulley. If your at altitude, that's going to cut it even more...

If your boost is going up at higher RPM, that sounds more like your motor is using the air it's pumping down low, not slipping and then as the motor becomes less efficient in the higher RPM, the air is backing up making more boost. Usually if you have a belt slip issue, it makes more boost down low and then fads up top, not the other way around.