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no shields. they did send me 3 short plug wires and i have been running them this whole time with no problems.
http://www.neufamily.org/03html/pics...s/DSCN1736.jpg |
do you worry about the heat wrap on your turbo hold moisture causing rust underneath like it does on race cars headers?
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that down pipe is coated, i dont think it rusted at all. on the inside it had a little rust on it.
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GOOD, i know that painted hedders will rust with that tape, but i didnt think about the coating! i ve seen a few little rust specs in my intake tubing, wonder how it can be stopped? :confused:
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Originally Posted by parish8
nice job on this. it seems very objective. i can add a little on the front mount.
"1. Underhood temps skyrocket 2. Need heat reducing steps in addition to FMICs 3. Since I am lumping several kits in here, I can't address the individual things of each kit, but generally speaking, may require extensive fabrication, loss of A/C, etc. 4. Expense of the kit, plus install" the underhood temps do go up but after running the cmotorsports kit for a year or so i dont think any additional heat reducing steps are required. i did melt a section out of my wheel well but they have moved the waste gate since then. the CM and LM kits both keep the AC and are designed to be bolt on kits. i dont know about the ptk stuff. you might want to add something like increased liklyhood of exhaust leaks and higher maintainance like more frequent oil changes and synthetic being required. |
I'll chime in for the Radix belt slippage....I have none with my 3" pulley, and didn't have any with the stock 3.4" either. I believe it's a matter of having the correct length belt to go along with the different pulley sizes. When I swapped my alternator out for an aftermarket one with a smaller pulley I did have belt slip, but that was remedied with a shorter belt.
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How many PSI are you running with your radix and the 3.0" pulley?
BTW this is my first post but i have been reading over here for a little while now. -Rob |
I've seen anywhere between 9 and 11 depending on the day.
Glad to see you started posting, no reason to lurk when you can join in! :judge: :lurk: |
good info and good job on making this thread...
I am curious....what each FI method does to the MPG and reliability of not only the aftermarket parts but the engine and drivetrain. |
Nice write up!!! Here is some more info on all of the kits from my personal experiences.
Centrifigual Chargers: 1. Boost is progressive, usually don't make full boost till the last 1000rpm. 2. Great for engine durability due to the max power doesn't come on till after the engines efficiency starts to fall off, as there is less risk of snapping a rod due to too much cylinder pressure like in roots style chargers. 3. (personal experience) Internally belt driven chargers(Powerdyne Quietdrive) are ok for stock applications but are not good at all for built applications or manual trany vehicles even if you upgrade the bearings and the belt to kevlar as it is too much load on the belt inside the charger. We were shredding the internal belt in fifteen minutes in our A4 Silverado due to the built trany shifting to fast causing it to rip the cogs of the little belt. 4. Belt slippage is the biggest problem with these kits due to the parasitic load to compress the charge inside the charger housing. 5. Had issue with our kit, once we got the belt slippage fixed we were making 12psi on a 6psi kit so I don't recommend this kit for people that want more than just the stock kit. 6. Powerdyne Quiet drive is made for STOCK applications not modified ones if you want it to last. 7. About half the kits now come with a blowoff valve to relieve boost pressure when the throttle is released to save the motor. If you get a kit that doesn't have one you should get one installed to help save the investment. 8. Personally I have been the least impressed with these kits due to the way the power comes on, very gradual not like the other two kits that set you in the seat hard when the boost comes on. Roots/Eaton Blowers: 1. Full boost from off idle to redline when full throttled. 2. Boost level changed with pulley change 3. most consist power delivery of all kits 4. Easiest install of all kits 5. Most likely kit to snap rods due to instant boost at low rpm and is the hardest on the lower end 6. intercooler is a must due to mid to low throttle cruising causes internal boost bypass valve to recirclate the intake air causing it be super heated to over 300F if you don't have the radix kit. 7. My personal favorite next to turbo's Turbo Kits: 1. Great for the big power numbers 2. Once turbo(s) are spooled you keep full boost till you let off of the gas in an auto and that makes it very fast for racing 3. Blow off valves make the coolest sound you will ever hear unless it is on the vehicle next to you as he leaves your ass sitting there 4. Most difficult of all the kits as they are very involved and have many pieces and factors that are all very inportant to the life of the kit 5. endless supply of different parts to use and change to tune to your individual needs or wants 6. Greatest power potentials of all kits 7. Should always allow for cool down for the turbo so that it doesn't cook the oil in the bushings. This is my opinion on the kits :drive: |
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