It will hardly change it. The LS9 head gaskets are the same .051" thickness but a larger 4.100" bore. GM#12622033. The best price when I got mine was from SDPC. I added ARP studs during the build.

Sorry to hear about your block pushing water but glad you caught it before it became a real problem. Back in the day when I use to race my old '73 455 TA, I ran a 200 shot of NO2 and use get a little "peeing" every once in a while. I'd dump a little Alumaseal in the radiator and keep racing. :-)

Rick

 

I did this same thing one night. Small puddle on the trailer the next day and an evaporated water trail down the side of the block. Took my greedy tuneup out of it and it never did it again, and it sealed itself back up.

 

Greedy as in timing?

 

Blown06- That would be cool if mine does the same.

If not do I really need studs over ARP bolts and are gaskets the only other thing I need?

Do you have to put anything on the gaskets or do anything to the heads or block besides clean them?

 

Nope, just clean each surface real good with a razor blade.

 

Thanks man!

 

There is also a TQ sequence required when installing new factory Tq to yield head bolts.

Since your also going to have your intake off make sure you have the newer green intake gaskets as opposed to the old red ones that are prone to vacuum leaks.

Also GM sealent is the best rtv sealent ive ever used and is handy to have.

SDPC has the best prices ive found and pretty knowlegable staff.

Good luck Bud!

 

FWIW, my old motor had ARP bolts, not studs. They're cheaper and easier, and in my opinion all that is needed on a motor thats not pushed with crazy boost/timing.

 

I went and found a picture. You can clearly see the water trail. This was at 15 psi boost and 24* of timing on half and half mix of pump gas and some 110 from the track. It ran its ***** off on that pass (first time it ever went 10 anything). Once I realized what happened, I let it cool off completely over night and like I said before backed off the timing a bit.