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Newbie here, LM7.. Which Heads for FI?

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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 01:36 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Hivelocit
So Stock heads are 9.1:1 compression, so if i were to bore the engine say .30 over would it reduce the compression ratio, and in a good way? is there a magic number for compression in regards to forced induction? I figured while I am into the block itself forging the rods why not displace it a lil more... or should I stick to what I have and call it a day? Thoughts....
Actually, stock compression ratio is 9.5:1. And I doubt you'll be able to go .030 overbore. Stock bore is 3.78", and the largest overbore that most go to is 3.907" IIRC. Basically, you'd have "an iron LS1" at that point, 5.7 liters.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 08:52 AM
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Just throw in some forged slugs and crank the boost an extra pound or two. No need for boring imo, unless there is damage.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 02:56 PM
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If you bore .030" over, the compression ratio will go up, not down. And .030" overbore would be no sweat. I bored mine .125"... there is a lot of meat there. Find some oversize forged pistons first, then take the block to the machine shop along with the pistons. That way the bore can be sized pefectly to the pistons instead of taking a shot in the dark.

Last edited by swift700; Mar 3, 2012 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Actually, stock compression ratio is 9.5:1. And I doubt you'll be able to go .030 overbore. Stock bore is 3.78", and the largest overbore that most go to is 3.907" IIRC. Basically, you'd have "an iron LS1" at that point, 5.7 liters.
^^^Drunk post... I suck at math when I'm drinking beer!

Originally Posted by swift700
If you bore .030" over, the compression ratio will go up, not down. And .030" overbore would be no sweat. I bored mine .125"... there is a lot of meat there. Find some oversize forged pistons first, then take the block to the machine shop along with the pistons. That way the bore can be sized pefectly to the pistons instead of taking a shot in the dark.
^^^What swift said.
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 08:05 PM
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As a general rule of thumb does everyone here replace the Main, Rod, and Cam bearings even if all of the bearings check out okay? Engine had 75k original miles... I know on a standard motor people do this but on a turbo motor it would be better insurance to just replace correct?
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 10:24 AM
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As a general rule of thumb does everyone here replace the Main, Rod, and Cam bearings even if all of the bearings check out okay? Engine had 75k original miles... I know on a standard motor people do this but on a turbo motor it would be better insurance to just replace correct?

Yes, replace them all, they're cheap.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 01:47 AM
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Just my .02, but you should make a decision on what to do with your build and possibly take a little bit of a different direction. If you are looking at putting any forged parts in that engine, your going to have to do a complete rebuild and you will want both pistons and rods. You need to just sell it and pick up a 6.0, you can punch it out .030 and have a 370 that will make serious power. Both sizes will have similar priced parts, there is just no reason to spend that kind of money and not chase the power differential with the minimal additional costs. Just to clarify the power differential, you could push a forged 370 to 750whp and beyond on the stock crank without issue.

That being said, I think a set of ported 5.3 heads with studs and ls9 gaskets would get you to 550whp with the right cam and tune at around 10lbs. That is a ton of power, probably more than you would need unless you are trying to break 10's or something. With those studs and gaskets, you could probably push it to 600 without issues if you have a good tuner. You might need a 90mm intake and throttle body also. Would still be a killer street setup for much less time and expense.

Last edited by 02'Z71ONDUBZ'; Mar 9, 2012 at 01:58 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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Would a set of 243 heads i have off a 6.0 work ok with a turbo set up or just the 317's that were mentioned
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