Check the clearance when you are unbolting the converter. That could be the problem.

Did you rebuild the engine? If so, did you tap the crank back and forth to set the thrust bearing?

 

I didn't build it or it probably wouldn't have made it to 100 miles. Lol! Built by shop with over 25 years of BBB A+ rating. Of course they did send wrong motor with wrong cam first time around

 

Why would you need to shim the oil pump unless youre running a double roller chain??? Converter depth issue will normally take trans pump out, a ballooned converter will take out the thrust bearing, and possibly the trabs pump, depending on how bad the converter swelled!!!

 

Whenever possible and if your horsepower goals will allow, use a known good factory shortblock... There's really no reason not to as they're cheap, plentiful, and proven.

 

That's the current plan.

Talked to yank this morning to see how much my converter is rated for and they said I'm still good. But naturally he suggested an upgrade because I'm reaching the limits of mine. Lol! Rather use any spare change on bullet proofing the engine. Ls9 head gaskets, ls7 lifters, trunnion upgrade etc.

 

Even most of the build engines youre gonna find are "seasoned" blocks, which is bacsically a nice way of saying its a remanufactured short block...doesnt matter what displacement it isin the, unless of course youre talking about a brand new block from dart or whatever, they are all going to have started life as a production engine...hada friend order an engine a while ago, granted it was a 383, but it had the original vim stamped in the block!!

 

Seasoned blocks are actually preferred vs a new production block as the casting has already "settled in." I've seen "seasoned" advertised as desirable for years. This only really applies to cast iron I think.

 

Well my string of good luck continues. Bought an 80k mile lq4 out of an 06 Suburban thru car-part.com and had it shipped in. Had a bad feeling ever since Wolftrk99 posted his experience buying a used lq9. Been down with a pinched nerve in my neck for a couple of weeks but finally got the engine home and unwrapped it. Started checking it out and noticed right off the bat that it had 706 heads on it. Checked the rear of the block for where I it was cast in either 4.8/5.3 or 6.0 and it was ground smooth. Pulled the water pump to check the front of the block where I know it was cast in and it's been ground smooth as well. Immediately called the junkyard that I bought it from and was told that the person I dealt with was off today but he would return my call tomorrow.

 

I feel your pain. A while back, I bought a "70k mile" LQ9 for another project off a Craigslist dismantler who was a couple hours south of me. I Paypal'd him and he sent one of his drivers to deliver. Real knowledgeable guy who parts out late model GM trucks, specializes in LQ4/LQ9, 80e's, etc. The motor shows up and I couldn't believe how caked in oil it was for a 70k mile motor. It had a newish parts store starter and water pump on it. The motor came with the harness and computer, normally there is a VIN sticker on the under side of the computer, the sticker was missing. So, I throw the PCM in my truck and read the VIN with HPT. Then I carfax'd the VIN. Turns out the truck had gone through emissions a year ago with 234k miles LOL. Dismantlers who do bait and switch and lie about VIN numbers are punishable by a $25,000 fine and multiple years in prison. I sent him screenshots of the whole deal. He sent his driver back a few days later and I watched him load up the whole mess into his sprinter van. Now I only buy motors from trucks that I can drive beforehand.

Check the driver's side of the motor right below the deck. There is a small flat spot where the VIN is sometimes stamped onto. It's real faint but it's there.

 

You gotta be kidding me...