Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Harmonic balancer will have to be scratch made... not quite a bolt on like the Corbra's and Lightnings. I've always liked Metco's 8 rib stuff... but they never did anything for the GM guys... probably because of the harmonic balancer. Metco even did a 10-rib for the Cobra... as far as I know VERY few were made. But now Innovators West and ATI build 8-rib balancers for the GM GENIII trucks. ATI has a cog drive balancer but I don't know if anyone has asked if they would be willing to build one to line up with the truck accessory drive. I am certainly not against someone doing their homework and trying.

Bill

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

hey Bill, I'm having trouble following all the hoses and connection points, can you draw a little schematic? sorta dumb it down a little bit for me?

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

I just doctored a pic for ya...

Bill

I also PM'd ya another company that makes catch cans and they plumb their's the same way...

(edit) had the flow arrow in wrong direction - corrected now)

Lord Aries

iTrader: (6)

I get a tiny bit of oil out of my Passanger side Vent line, seems to only do it when i really get on it hard and get motor up in the 4,000+RPM range... Could I just use a Oil/Air seperator like this one?



Its only $39.99 but, i can't post the site cause they ain't a sponsor...

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

This is the separator that has worked for many people. I bought two, one for each valve cover. On my set-up it seemed to have too much back pressure to bleed off the crankcase pressure fast enough, I was still pushing oil out the oil fill cap under boost.
I thought the filter inside the seperator was actually brass, like the ones used on air tools but it's not, it's some kind of stone like an aeretor for a fish tank. I'm not sure how long it will hold up to petroleum products or fumes.
Just an FYI.

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Back in the early days (97-00) time frame C5 guys were using the same basic setup... with a Campbell Hausfeld oil seperator that can be purchased at Home Depot. Eventually catch cans were "discovered" (for street use)because some guys were having to empty that tiny little resrvoir quite often... even with stock engines Also, I speculate oil seperators, designed for air compressors, (blow through design) might be a bit more restrictive than some catch cans due to minimal surface area of the media catching the oil mist. Several catch can guys have played with different media to catch oil mist. The catch can I have uses scotch brite as a catching media. Others use aluminum shavings (long thin shavings contained/packed within the can). Mann+Hummel uses a fibrous paper (I liken it to paper air filter media). A very popular non sponsor sells Mann+Hummel oil seperators as catch cans and they are quite effective because the media surface area is large enough, apparantly, to still allow good draw. But they are large and require step down hardware to adapt to the size of lines being tied into.
There is some other more serious belt driven hardware out there used for crank case evacuation as well... but don't think cost/benefit ratio is quite there for the power level, that least, I am at...

hemidup

Anyone think about using a one way valve from a header evac?

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

Parish was running that set-up, not sure if he still is.

Lord Aries

iTrader: (6)

The seperator i posted above is for automotive engines...

So a can would be better, eh? Well, then i'll find a nice small can and do that... Any reason why i couldn't run both side to one can?

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

I see no reason why you can't run both valve covers to one can. On the LS6 motor there is a 3rd port off the valley cover (with the driver side valve cover plugged). I've seen it plumbed so many different ways. I guess along as you are drawing crank case oil mist through a media filter of some kind and its has the volume to effectively reduce/eliminate the oil misting and pressure then thats all that matters. The one Krank Vent I have on my drivers side valve cover is working very well... while I have the passenger side cover still hooked to the bottom of the Radix intake tube drawing metered air. I think I'm going to test crank case pressure by adapting a gauge to the dip stick tube and go for a ride... and see how much if any pressure is built with what I have currently setup. I think thats going to tell how much, if any work, I still need to do considering current boost levels (standard 3.4 pulley at 7+psi on a very cold morning) with engine at operating temps.