Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Sent you a PM

Bill

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Well not quite working for me yet... but these Krank Vent valves are amazing. I just need to throttle metered incoming air into the crank case and I think I'll have it nailed.

Bill

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

That is the thing I don't understand. Why throttle incoming air into the crankcase under non boost conditions? Under boost with the drivers side valve no air is getting down there except from blow by and the fresh air vent is the only place anything is getting sucked out.

Why not let the system work normally under non boost conditions and just shut the PCV hose down while under boost?

I'm not trying to argue but, I don't understand the desire to completely shut off or throttle the incoming air to the crankcase in non boost situations. With just the valve in the drivers side you accomplish the same thing as both valves while under boost and also get a normally operating system in non boost situations.

Thanks, this is a good topic.

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

I do have one of the Krank Vents still going from the driver side valve cover to the back of the j-tube... via the catch can. When my motor is running if I pull the hose off of the passenger side valve cover port and put my thumb over it I can build an incredible amount of vacuum... to the point to where I will start pulling air through the rear main seal. If I pull my thumb off that port it sounds exactly like it would if you pulled the brake booster hose, with its check valve, off of the booster reservoir. I can build that much vacuum in my crank case with the one Krank Vent still over on the driver side valve cover. When I am under boost that Krank Valve does close preventing boost from entering the crank case... and what I'm being told more effectively than a regular PCV valve. What I didn't realize going into this is how effective these valves were.

When I had the second Krank Vent valve on the passenger cover it would close under vacuum conditions preventing ANY fresh metered air from entering the crank case thus causing air to be pulled through the rear main crank seal... well it sure as hell sounded like that is where it was coming from... because the sound was louder under the truck than in the engine compartment. That second Krank Vent valve would crack under ANY positive crank case pressure. So in that aspect it works very well.
So, my intention is rig something up to where I can meter just enough fresh air into the motor bypassing the second Krank Vent on the Passenger side and maintain more crank case vacuum than normal yet not be pulling unmetered air through any seals and potentially damaging them.

The thought process behind "designing" a bit more crank case vacuum is better part throttle response (which has already been reported) and also to provide a bit more time for piston blowby under boost conditions to overtake the additional crank case vacuum before the second Krank Vent needs to crack. If I understand the information correctly one vette guy with a Procharger pushing ALOT more boost than I am can maintain crank case vacuum for crazy amounts of time. I will PM you a thread to read... also read the links in that thread.

I agree, this is a good topic for discussion and I welcome everybody's experience and opinions

Bill

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Bill - I will think about it some more and read the links you provided to get a better understanding of what is trying to be accomplished.

I'm glad you took the second vent off because a completely closed system like that is not needed IMHO. You could probably get a little brass plumbing valve and put in line of the fresh air hose. That way you can open and close it until you find the amount of air you're looking for, unless that is too ghetto for you.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

like a ball valve?

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Vacuum regulator... I'll do some looking around. One recommended to me available through McMaster-Carr is $180. I know it can be done cheaper... perhaps a bleed valve of some kind. I'll be doing some researching

Bill

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Absolutely... cannot have the second valve on as it sits... got to be able to have metered air into the crank case. I just want to be in control of that... not just a simple hose from the Radix intake duct to the valve cover. We'll get it figured out

Bill

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

I think the electronic valve that comes on the STS kits attemps to do this by seeing more than 1psi of boost and closing down, while under vacumn it lets the passenger side of the engine breath normally. I deleted this valve from my set-up thinking it did not flow enough volume to vent off crank pressure fast enough. The issue I have is bressure building up in the crankcase so high it pushes the dipstick and the oil fill cap up and blows out oil. Many others have had the same or simlilar issues.
I'm not really sure these Krank valves would help my issue, as I stated before I may have a more than normal amount of blow-by getting into the crankcase possibly from a damaged piston.
The weird thing is I dont see this at low boost (4-5psi) only at highboost (7-10psi) has it really been an issue. My truck also runs perfect at idle and cruising, now strange sounds coming from the engine....weird??
This is a good topic and sould be kept on course for all the people here who have this issue. It's both frustrating and dangerous to have oil blowing out of your engine anywhere.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Tim - Do you have a one way check valve on your main PCV hose coming off the top of the intake manifold? If not boost can get into the crankcase that way. mcmastercarr sells a very inexspensive brass valve with a .3psi cracking pressure that a lot of guys use on the PCV line.

It may help some but, from what you're describing it sounds like you have either a ring or piston problem.