BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Yep, it's a 2500 stock factory 6.0L. I know the interceptor will only clue me in so much but i got it while I am waiting for the new EFILive to come out. Ihave a suspicion that I am running lean. IAT at knock varies. Even when it is very low (around 70 degrees or so) it will still register knock. I try colder plugs just for ***** & Grins. Thanks for all the help guys. Keep the suggestions coming.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (11)

I would install NGK TR6 plugs and bring the truck to a dyno that can properly scan it andf check the A/F.You can get a ton of idea's here but you need to really just have it checked out with the right equipment.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

THanks man. Was going to do that and then hit up TTP for their dyno day. They di log it for me before and we saw alot of knock retard on the ATAP so I know it's not just the Scan guage "fooling" me

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

The one thing that annoys me is that now I have to spend more money to get it tuned to compensate for the insufficient magnacharger tune. Don't understand why it's knocking and down on power.

GMC_DUDE

Something isn't right here. I'm running a radix with an undersized pulley making 10 psi boost, stock radix tune, and am seeing 18° timing with no knock retard at WOT (per hptuners scan). Here is something cheap and relatively easy to do. Take your spark plugs out and look at them. The insulators should be about the color of a roast chicken, with maybe a slight reddish tint. If any are chalky white, then you have a lean condition in that cylinder. If they are all white, then there is something wrong with the fuel system. If it is just one or maybe two white plugs, then I would suspect injectors (dirty, plugged, malfunctioning, loose wire or connector, etc.). Another possibility, although remote, is that the PCM is bad and cannot supply enough current to completely open the injector valves. But please do take a look at the plugs and let us know what you find.

BlownChevy

iTrader: (20)

sounds to me like you are tuning around a possible mechanical problem. I have perosnally installed hundreds of these kits and never once seen an issue with knock (even on cali gas). I think you need to take a step back and check some of the obvious things......

Make sure your manifold is tq'd down to 89 inch pounds

Are you using the stock MAF

Headers? This would make it run lean

Air intake? This would makeit run lean

Vacume leak?

I noticed that back in January you had a dyno done and the truck was lean on the stock calibration.....Sounds to me like there is a hidden machanical issue. Have you changed the fuel filter?
What are the other mods that you may have that are not listed?

Danville Performance

I'm going to have to agree with blown chevy on this one. I have installed half a dozen on this aplication and they are tuned way rich for safety reasons. The problem is in the trucks fueling system be it electrical or mechanical. To actually hear an audiable knock means there is a serious problem in the fueling department. The way you are discribing it, the problem was there before you charged it. On our shop truck we had an audiable knock at 5800 rpm and up because we were pegging the MAF at 60lbs/min aroung 5800 rpm and the motor goes to 6600rpm so we were forced to detune the trany shifts so that we stayed away from this problem until we could speed density tune it. I would definitly find the best suited shop that is able to figure out the actual problem with your knocking issue. We shattered 3 pistons in the original 5.3L because of audiable knock caused by lack of fuel so don't delay on the diagnosis.

dhpro

iTrader: (3)

I've had my Radix since last jul and about 12k miles so far. I originally had an intermittant misfire and a few other similar issues to urs. I took mine for some custom tuning and really didn't need it, as the Mag tune was really quite good and very aggressive - altho it struggles in hot humid weather and u might wanna have a smaller pulley and alternate tune for summer. I'd listen to all the points BlownChevy has asked on as he typically ends up being right. Its a pain to go over it all, but my experience so far has been that its something that was missed - I've had my share of teething probs. R/

Holty

iTrader: (6)

yes, but you have a COMPLETETLY different engine than he does.

Danville Performance

Doesn't matter about the engine being different. A lawn mower to a High performance race car spark plug diagnosis is a vital tool to tell you what is going on in each cylinder. I'm a ASE Certified Mastertech and pulling the plugs is one of the first things I do when I have a driveability issue like this one. It really sounds like a fuel system issue. Does this truck have a frame mount fuel booster pump? Make sure it is running and also make sure you are not having a MAF sensor issue or O2 sensor issue. If your fuel trims match from side to side on the engine then it is highly unlikely that it is an O2 issue. You can also start the truck and unplug the MAF sensor and let it run for a while so the computer figures out that the sensor is unplug at least 5 minutes or until the motor is to operating temp and then try and drive it. It will be operating in open loop and should run fine. If the truck runs fine then it is a MAF problem but if it still pings, knocks then you have a serious fueling issue because in open loop the computer runs the fuel trim extra fat to be safe and takes spark away from it to be on the safe side. This should help you in your diagnosis. Let me know what you find. I had this same issue with a procharged 4.3L S10 and it was the MAF sensor causing all the problems. They had the pcv hose on the wrong side of the sensor and it was coating the sensor with oil skewing the readings.