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Instructions on ditching the whipple electronics?

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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 04:25 AM
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Question Instructions on ditching the whipple electronics?

I could've put this on someone else's thread, but thought it would do better on it's own: Has anyone taken the time to briefly write up some instructions for ditching the whipple craptronics (photos would also be great)? I've followed dozens of threads on this, but they were pieced together & not very complete.

I just bought a used whipple (only 1000 miles) for an 05 SS 6L & I have an 03 1500HD 6L. I've got the 42# injectors coming + my stock pcm (currently have a W4M pcm installed)tuned for the injectors so I can drive the truck to the dyno shop after the install. I'm going to try to use the boost-a-pump that came with the kit to save money, as long as it's independent & not tied to the piggyback.

But from here, it gets fuzzy on the rest, especially the bypass. Any help would be great.

Off subject: I have the HD & know it has the tranny cooler which I think is part of the tow package. Will this transmission stand up to an extra 100 hp? I want to dust a couple trucks (& ricers) around here, but no real racing or heavyduty hauling. Thanks all!
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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I'm going the same route. From what understand you just don't use the whipple EFI or piggy back injectors or PCM flash programmer. Put them in a storage box or sell em on Ebay.

I have the wait4me tune on my truck now. Jesse won't tune for FI so I went to Allen Nelson. He's setting me up with the 42 lb injectors, the tuned PCM and the in line fuel pump. You will need your PCM tuned for the FI. From what I understand that's about all there is to it....besides installing the whipple and crossing your fingers on your tranny...

I'll try to photo document my install.....It's tougher to stop and take pictures and notes but maybe it'll help others down the road.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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Yeah, sounds like we're in the same boat. I will be using the boost-a-pump though since I already have that & it's not tied to the piggyback.

My big questions is with the bypass, etc. In some threads, people said to plug one of the hoses, then someone else said to do something different so I am confused.

Also not sure what transmission I have & if it will hold up, like I said, I won't be racing....much!

Got my injectors yesterday along with the pcm tuned for them. Hope to get it all installed next week & drive to get it dynotuned the same day! Getting anxious!
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by buckmaster61081
Yeah, sounds like we're in the same boat. I will be using the boost-a-pump though since I already have that & it's not tied to the piggyback.

My big questions is with the bypass, etc. In some threads, people said to plug one of the hoses, then someone else said to do something different so I am confused.

Also not sure what transmission I have & if it will hold up, like I said, I won't be racing....much!

Got my injectors yesterday along with the pcm tuned for them. Hope to get it all installed next week & drive to get it dynotuned the same day! Getting anxious!

I see what you mean about the bypass part.

Just got my Whipple in yesterday and noticed an electrical type plug near the bypass outlet. Not sure if it's supposed to have something wired into it since I'm not using whipple electronics. All the other connections are just air tubes.

I know I can leave the fuel injectors in that intake elbow and just not hook them up and it won't bother anything. Could be a good spot for Alky injection later. But electrical wiring to the Bypass outlet kind of makes wonder if it should be plugged into something else the bypass won't work. I assume the stuff that was plugged into the throttle body gets replugged into the moved throttle body. Maybe other folks that have done this can chime in......

I got the whipple in yesterday. Nelson just let me know that I should have injectors, PCM and in-line fuel by Tuesday. So I should be able to begin install next week. I'm gonna do Injectors, PCM, fuel pump, and flip the valve cover one night. And then put the whipple on maybe a few nights later.

I'll take notes and pictures to hopefully leave behind a road map for others. Let me know how you did yours as you may get yours together b4 I get mine. If possible, PM pics would be nice......just a few after the install.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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Ok, the tranny is gonna take a pretty quick after you get up and running. There are a couple of "less expensive" ways to prolong its life.
1. Get a shift kit (Trans-Go HD)
2. Remove the stock "Tow Pkg" cooler and install a BIG one.

I just installed my 40,000GVW cooler 2 days ago. I had the stock one you have. I was sitting at 200* tranny fluid temp all the time. Since I installed the Tru-Cool 40K GVW cooler it doesnt get over 160*. A 40* drop in tranny fluid temp is well worth the $120 I invested.

Good luck
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
Ok, the tranny is gonna take a pretty quick after you get up and running. There are a couple of "less expensive" ways to prolong its life.
1. Get a shift kit (Trans-Go HD)
2. Remove the stock "Tow Pkg" cooler and install a BIG one.

I just installed my 40,000GVW cooler 2 days ago. I had the stock one you have. I was sitting at 200* tranny fluid temp all the time. Since I installed the Tru-Cool 40K GVW cooler it doesnt get over 160*. A 40* drop in tranny fluid temp is well worth the $120 I invested.

Good luck
I'm in Alaska, my tranny temp rarely goes up to 160 in the few miles I drive a day. It actually doesn't even move to 100 deg from home to work (just a few miles a day). I have the stock towing package cooler.

Yeah, I have the transgo and vette servo sitting in the "waiting to install" pile in my garage. That's going on about a week after the whipple. I also asked Allen Nelson to use a conservative little torque management to help save the tranny a while longer. I'm just looking for better performance, not a strip racer. Nelson is gonna send me an updated PCM for the transgo before I install it.

I was just wondering about that bypass on the whipple. It seems if its stuck open then it relieves boost...which I guess you wouldn't want to do... The servo that controls it is activated by whipple electronics, which I am not using. So I was wondering how to connect it so that it doesn't cheat me out of boost.

Last edited by duplantisjj; Sep 2, 2006 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:20 AM
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Amazing how you find the answers when you use the search function....

This older thread talks all about the bypass

Whipple bypass thread
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by duplantisjj
Amazing how you find the answers when you use the search function....

This older thread talks all about the bypass

Whipple bypass thread
Yep, it's like a Deja Vu moment for me. If you make it through all 10 pages and still are stuck just PM me. It was 2 years ago, but I may be able to help nonetheless.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 02:09 AM
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Those pics on that original thread were so hard to figure out. I think I understand what needs to be done and why. The previous whipple owner never touched the bypass and also said he never could get over 4lbs of boost. He thought the pulley was too big for his 6.0L. He also ditched the craptronics and used injectors and HPtuners. Anyway, can someone look at the pic below and tell me if that is the right line to disconnect and block. I have a 1/8" NPT plug to replace the elbow with and a plug for the vac line.
Thanks

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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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Hopefully coontoot will chime in again about this.

Off subject, but I did find out I have the 4L80E trans in the 1500HD so I should be good there as far as that's concerned. I hear they're rather sturdy!
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