I'm modding a trick cast manifold for 50mm wastegate! Pics inside.
 

As far as I know, I'm the only person to do this so far. I don't even know of anybody who is using the front wastegate port on theirs so check this out.

I didn't like the idea of running the waste gate on the cross over pipe under the truck, just seems really backwards and not the most efficient for flow. Sure, it works, but I would rather be truly bleeding exhaust from all 8 cylinders.

I started by cutting the built in flange off. This took forever with a sawzall on stainless. I probably have a solid hour of cutting time to get through this.
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Finally.
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Then opened up the hole from 1.5" to 2" for the 50mm waste gate. The built in flange is for 38mm.
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Test fit of new 2" waste gate pipe.
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And here is the full length tube tig welded in. This will be cut down once I get the wastegate and down pipe completed.
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Not bad for 20 minutes of experience in tig welding!
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The waste gate will be V-band mounted straight off the manifold and then exit 90* out to the wheel, wrapping around the A/C line (heat wrapped of course) and then bend into the down pipe. The heater lines will also be rerouted, which is required no matter what. Again, this is not the final length, it will be cut accordingly.
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I'll post more progress as I get there.

Interested in seeig the turbo mounted w the oil drain.

Cool project!

i really debated doing that to mine for my 44mm but im just making a 38>44 elbow

I thought about doing that too but you're still forcing all your waste exhaust through that little 38mm hole. The smallest part is still going to be your restriction.

Pretend you drilled a 1/16" hole into a plastic bottle cap and try to blow through it. It doesn't matter what's on the other side of the hole, you can only get so much air through there.

Not 100% true. I put a 39mm to 46mm adapter on my cross over and that solved my boost creep issue, I can even open the cutout and really let it flow.

2 bolt to v band thanks to Rick for making this for me

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38 to 44 isnt a huge difference, i plan on taking some material out of that casting anyway to open it up. I just didnt want to deal with cutting it all out and welding it all up.

With my setup i could prob get away with a 38mm gate, but i got a smoking deal on the 44mm

Not sure if the log mounted 39 would do better than the cross over but man I'm telling you the upgrade I did made a world of difference

im with you i dont really like the idea of the WG in the x-over pipe. Im just doing a quick 90 elbow off my manifold. worse comes to worse and it doesnt work out its not hard to pull the manifold and cut it up like you did. I have a carbite tool that should be able to smooth out and open up that 38mm to slightly larger port

Sounds good. I'll let you know how it works out, I'm hoping to have the hot side all done in a week or two.

The hole is not the smallest part.
There's a valve in the way.
So a 39mm hole adapted to a 46mm gate.
The gate is the restriction not the hole.
Might measure that hole I think it's larger then 38mm.

Sure looks like a lot of work to fix something that wasn't broke. :(

New gate location.
http://www.shop.trickperformanceprod...mages/mani.jpg

I remember that one. Glad it worked out.
Might I recommend taking a small piece of metal strap. Weld from gate outlet to the down pipe.
Should give that unit more support.

i just measured a flange for a 38mm gate, its actually about 35mm ID, my 44mm gate is much larger than the port on the manifold so i would say the WG is not the restriction, or am i thinking wrong here?

I find some of your posts hard to understand.

1- What is the smallest part? Yes there is a valve inside the wastegate.
2- How is the gate a restriction when it's larger than the hole? When it's closed the wastegate is definitely a restriction. But when it's wide open, 46mm is larger than 38.

The stock hole measured 1.5" = 38.1mm
My new hole is 2" = 50.8mm.

They run 38mm wastegates on 2 liter engines. With mine being 6.6l, I decided to go big right away on the wastegate to make sure I have no problems. It will be a lot easier and cheaper to do this the first time for me than buying a smaller gate but then having to switch it out for a larger one when it doesn't work well enough for me.

I like the new wastegate location. Looks like a good spot! Looks like it has a smooth transition too.

Ok let's start over. The 1st casted manifold has an opening of 1.5.
38.1mm. 38mm gates have a smaller flange area.
More like 35mm. So the manifold is not the restriction.
Now even if the gate flange was 38mm the gate is still the restriction.
The valve still be smaller. And it's in the way.
Just like CHODA truck. 39mm gate he had some slight issues.
Installed a 39/46 adapter. Used a 46mm gate.
Problem went away.

Yea I do that alot. :)

They run the 38 on pretty much on
Everything.
Yours being a large cube engine. Then the larger gate is perfect.
Will help you run lower boost the. The 38mm would.
Agreed easier to do with it out the first time.
If you had a small engine no need for a 50mm gate.

Just because a gate is 46mm does not mean that it will flow what a 46mm opened pipe will flow. I would love to see what a 46mm gate would flow on a bench, im sure it would flow less than a 38mm opened pipe.

I see what you're saying now. Having both pipe and gate of equal size, the gate will be the restrictor between the two. That would be interesting to see.

Anyway, the stock wastegate flange and hole are on the smaller side for the displacement of my engine. Making it bigger opens up more options for me.

I recommend you throw the turbo on there. Check your oil lines
Cold piping etc. prior to cutting and fitting the gate.
A slight tilt might make your install cleaner and easier on you.

I notice you used a sawzaw. Wow. How many blades you go throu?

Did some measuring last night on my setup

my manifold flange 37.8mm
my flange to bolt to manifold is beveled on one side 35.10 on the non beveled side, 38.73 on the beveled side thats where a pipe can slide in and welded
Tial BOV flange-48.04 on beveled side that accepts pipe
inside that meets the "fire ring" is only 39.51.

So my plan is to port match the manifold, new 38mm flange to the 39.51 of the inlet of my tial 44 flange

:D:hack::D

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http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...psd9cd05a5.jpg

Ok? What does that add to this thread?

some crappy welds lol

Here's some pictures of how the wastegate will approximately sit. You can also see the turbo drain clearance which is about 1".
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You can see the wastegate sitting behind the stainless pipe, just below the compressor. This is how far from the manifold it will be.
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Will be exiting like this, still need to move my heater core lines.
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Stay tuned for more this week. Goal is to have hot side complete down to the firewall by the weekend.

Wow. That's a monster ^^^^

got any front pics of how your drain goes?

Some people mentioned in my build thread how it's out in the open, but there's a ton of space in front and I am going to use it.
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im trying to debate where to run mine with that manifold, i was thinking up front like that or down below the manifold in the side of the oil pan.
with efans there is SOOO much room up there,

I think the front of the pan is easier and less risky, the pan has that sloping part before it drops off so if anything goes into the pan you can more than likely get it out, thats what I did anyways

i wont be doing it on the vehicle, ill pull the pan and drill and weld the fitting. Its worth the extra time for me not to worry about shavings in the oil pan

Looks nice is your feed and drain 90* perpendicular?

I drilled and tapped the pan when I built the engine last year.

Oil lines are probably 15* off vertical. In the working range. With how large the drain hole is,

I spent almost 2 hours drilling my return on the passenger side of the pan and never had a problem. Used lots of grease and cleaned the bit so many times I can't remember. Ran the truck for 3 years. Pulled my pan a couple months again, this was what I found. Was going to just do a cam swap. That turned into a motor.

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Those shaving were too big to be anything except from drilling the turbo oil return. The rear cam bearings were toast but that could have been the shavings.

When I drilled and tapped the 5.3 years ago I used a shop vac. It was running the whole time we were drilling and tapping. Last year when I lost the motor do to the cam gear breaking, there was nothing in the pan beside piston bits.

I wont chance it, takes maybe 45 min to get the oil pan out, plus i like to weld my fittings

I just about finished it up this week. Just need to plasma cut a hole in the down pipe to run the wastegate into and final weld everything. Looks like it's going to work out perfect.

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I'll probably just have to cut out the plastic inner fender a little but for some clearance.
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4 inch dp?

It is.

Nice work! Looks good.

Wow. That turned out really really nice!!!

Cool, thanks a lot. Wasn't trying super hard, lol.