The towing or the 11.41?

Come on Parish, you towed with your frond mount, and ran 10 flats....
Plus ran a high ten with your stock LQ4... SO as I see it, mine came up a bit short..

 

i was talking about the towing. not knocking ya for doing it and i do the same but when people talk of "towing not recomended for a front mount" i think that is going out to people that try things like you did.

5000lbs up a 6% grade at 80mph for 5 minutes is going to get things prety dang hot

i was towing with the tahoe the other day. about a 3500lb enclosed trailer on flat ground but against a 20mph head wind at 75mph. i stuck in it od but the thing was working hard enough it didn't even try and shift into 4th. just stuck in 3rd at 3000rpm. for that i think a turbo would be ideal, let the truck shift into 4th and probably run along at just a couple of psi of boost and almost for sure get better mileage. thats the type of towing i think a front mount would be ideal for, also geting up to speed on the onramps but only if you have a strong tranny. i could see more significant boost and loads for extended periods of time hurting a stock engine or the hot parts on the turbo set up.

 

Pyro never passes 1400, My exhaust runs colder when I tow (acording to the pyro) This is due to my very agressive fueling rate. I command the truck to be in P.E mode all the time and just use the boost enrichment tables, which mean, The computer does not care what rpm I build boost, the a/f ratio is 11.4 after 1 psi....

 

So in other words when you are towing not only does your fuel guage drop fast but it breaks the needle off and spits it out of the truck Then burps afterwards.

I know when I tow and run in boost for a decent amount of time my fuel milage SUCKS....

 

YA, LMAO, that pretty much sums it up. I did find that O/D, 5psi, and 80mph is worse than 3rd, 0 psi, and 80 mph for fuel milage, but My pride woun't let me down shift..

 

Hey I plan on towing with my front mount. I towed with my procharger and never had any issues, But then again it didn't make any heat under the hood. Hey its still a truck and I'll use it as one, Don't mind kicking someones *** at a stop light with it either.

 

What about when you add aftermarket pistons, what hp/tq would be safe to make?

Thanks.

 

That is a very good question. Seams how 99% of all engine falures are related to piston damage at this level, they are the weak link, but how much can the cranck and rods hold? Depends on the RPM you plan on running, boost level, driving style and most important, tunning. If you plan on spinging the engine past 6,200 rpm that is when I would start to question rods crank. The hard part of tring to figure this out is that almost everyone that blows up a lsx engine that is FI, replaces the pistons and rods seams how it is only 500 bucks for some H-beam rods now days. One thing we know for sure G.M didn't think the LQ4 rods were strong enough for the higher compresion and higher rpms of the LQ9, but how much better are they?

 

Stock crank can hadle the RPM's, stock rods with stock rod bolts not so much. I would dare say you could make 800+ flywheel hp with a bone stock short block. Good fuel would be in order.

 

Can anyone post a link to a rod failure thread for a LQ4 or LQ9?