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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 10:32 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by JimS
My guage says I'm doing 13.8 at wot. Katech rod bolts on stock crank/rods.
That is the most I have ever heard the radix making on a 5.3? I want to see some dyno numbers or track times!!!
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 12:11 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by spinz71
I'm running 10psi with no issues. After the pistons, I'd be concerned with the transmission.
I'd be concerned about the tranny long before 10 psi.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KBOBOZ71
once again man id love to see some numbers outta that truck!

I don't plan to dyno or race until right before I'm ready to do the next project... 402 w/the 122 Radix. Unless... your desire to see the numbers can be taken as an open offer to share in the cost for parts that break while I'm pushing them all repeatedly to the max in an all-out effort to get "the number" I want.

Seriously, I'd love to know the dyno/race results too but I really don't want to hurt anything until I can afford the new set up. I'm havin too much fun just getting on it and pushing it for a while to be willing to give it up all in the name of getting a number.

I'm have a FAST wb dual sensor gauge, a Mezierre elec water pump and 4" exhaust to get installed this month, then this winter a better trans, then next spring or summer a fabricated housing Ford 9" big axle rear w/four link and THEN the new engine. As I'm doing all this I might have to do a 50 or 100 hp shot of juice to placate my growing desire for MORE power!
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by zippy
Most 5.7L's will already take a 5.7L's piston...
My bad I meant a 5.3 bore to a 5.7, lol.

What tranny do I have if it is a reg cab short bed '05 with the 5.3? And what can I do to make it take the extra power? Also, if I get forged pistons and better rods can I go up to 15-20psi?

I have a set of Oliver I-Beam billet rods that I was going to use on the 5.7 Hemi but did not. Any ways they are 6.125 c-c / 2.100 crank pin / .927 pin / 669gm. AllI need is pistons right?
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 01:28 PM
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Probably the 4L60E. At a minimum, you'd need a shift kit, servos and alum. accumulator pistons. After that its just a matter of time before the pinion or sunshell
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by spinz71
Probably the 4L60E. At a minimum, you'd need a shift kit, servos and alum. accumulator pistons. After that its just a matter of time before the pinion or sunshell
my 4l60E and rear all at once in 150 miles of 6 psi ,servos and TM removed
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 09:15 AM
  #17  
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25psi

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=376107
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 10:04 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TahoeSS01
my 4l60E and rear all at once in 150 miles of 6 psi ,servos and TM removed

HA!!! Thats how long my 60E lasted at 10 psi! Well...not really but kinda. I ran 5psi for about 4-5 months and then added a cam, TQ and 10 psi spring. Then it went **** up in less than a week.
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 10:18 AM
  #19  
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Trans tuning has A LOT to do with making a 60E/65E live. Mine died in a couple months from crapping tuning. I'm sure it would've lived a lot longer had it been properly tuned.
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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Agreed on the tuning. I think if you can get a shift kit, servos and accumulators in along with the proper tuning they will last a reasonable amount of time...in the context of miles/dollars spent. Assuming you haven't beat on it prior to the upgrades. That was my problem. I hammered that tranny with no upgrades for a year before I went FI. STS went on with 60K miles already on it and about 5K FI miles with no upgrades . It finally broke.
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