Having Issues
#11
I hear ya!! That is on my to do list. I already got a water temp and EGT sitting around. Just waiting to see how much everything is going to cost me for motor build. I should have built it first but, the "I want now" took over.
#14
were getting quite a few people from down this way.
i haven't talk to Matt in ages, don't have his number anymore so somebody tell him Brian said whatsup. we need to have a gtg if everybodys truck would stay running at the same time lol
i haven't talk to Matt in ages, don't have his number anymore so somebody tell him Brian said whatsup. we need to have a gtg if everybodys truck would stay running at the same time lol
#15
haha I think those are the magic words.... I finally get my 6.0L built and then decide to go ahead and build a forged 370... But yes there are some bad rides in this area for sure, we have one boy in new Z06 running 10:80's n 1/4 with radials, exaust & tune. Would be fun for a GTG at the track.
Sup Rodney....
#16
the fitting on the FPR does not have a flared end, bead or anything to help hold the vac line on...the stock vac line is rigid for this reason I think, but the boot on the end gets hard with time...I removed mine from the intake's port, which BTW is way bigger than the FPR fitting...I then ran a new piece of rubber vac line from it to a reducer vac fitting, then used a short piece of really soft silicone vac line from there to the FPR fitting so I could get a ty-wrap on it good and tight...also ty-wrapped the other three connections as well
#17
haha I think those are the magic words.... I finally get my 6.0L built and then decide to go ahead and build a forged 370... But yes there are some bad rides in this area for sure, we have one boy in new Z06 running 10:80's n 1/4 with radials, exaust & tune. Would be fun for a GTG at the track.
Sup Rodney....
Sup Rodney....
#18
the fitting on the FPR does not have a flared end, bead or anything to help hold the vac line on...the stock vac line is rigid for this reason I think, but the boot on the end gets hard with time...I removed mine from the intake's port, which BTW is way bigger than the FPR fitting...I then ran a new piece of rubber vac line from it to a reducer vac fitting, then used a short piece of really soft silicone vac line from there to the FPR fitting so I could get a ty-wrap on it good and tight...also ty-wrapped the other three connections as well
#19
Finally got around to pulling motor out. Seems that I have two bent rods. I also found out that the first shop didn't hook up my cam sensor, so that was probally causing my extended crank. He also didn't hook up my knock sensors. I don't know much about turbo's, but I think my vacuum/boost lines were hooked up wrong. He was taking a reference off the turbo and the back of the intake into a tee then to the boost gauge. I believe this was why I had a fuel spike in the first place
Any opinions?
Edit* He also didn't know where to find a oil tap for the turbo so he unhooked my oil sensor. Which I said was fine for a temp. fix I would fix later, but what I didn't know was he JB welded his fitting in the sensor hole.
Any opinions?Edit* He also didn't know where to find a oil tap for the turbo so he unhooked my oil sensor. Which I said was fine for a temp. fix I would fix later, but what I didn't know was he JB welded his fitting in the sensor hole.
Last edited by HorsePower Hunter; May 26, 2008 at 03:44 PM.



