I'm thinking the cermaic coating will retain the heat and actually help, not hurt, the exhaust flow/pressure. Zombie was running uncoated long tubes which have a lot of surface area to radiate heat before reaching the Y-pipe.
On the paint, anything to keep the heat in the exhaust from radiating out of the pipe is going to be good.

 

glad to see you guys feeding off of this thread...
I remember from some training on steam operated tire curing presses where I used to work that heat has a direct relation to pressure and vice versa...if I remember correctly, the pressure rises somewhat parallel with the amount of heat being contained...correct?

 

I know who that guy "engineermike" is, he's from this area (his car is a stock appearing and sounding LT1 Camaro... until you hear the turbo spool) anyways...

I'm sure the temp made some difference, but think about this:
yesterday I was reading a thread about a guy that installed his STS kit and had to get to his tuner, but was afraid that at highway rpms he would be making boost and hurt his untuned motor. He was assured that as long as he kept the load to a minumum he would not be making boost, regardless of engine speed.

with that in mind: the original poster of this ls1tech thread also mentioned that he got a much tighter stall, call me crazy, but I'm willing to bet the when you try to accelerate hard through a tighter stall, your engine load just increased dramatically

I'm not an engineer, but this is what is logical to me.

 

Yes, it's directly proportional in that case.

ktmrider, ceramic coating will most definatley keep the heat in the tubing. It will keep the heat in far better than an un-coated header, but when compared to the stock manifolds, they have more surface and they're made out of much thinner material. These properties will make them transfer to the surroundings more than manifolds. If you painted, wrapped and painted them, I think you'd have the best of both worlds though. The warranty on your headers will be void though if you wrap them.

 

I think someone over there mentioned that, but it was quickily dismissed. I think this guy changed too many things at once for it to be considered a scientific test. From the way I gathered it, he changed his stall, his exhaust housing, and headers. I know when I went from the 60E with a 3000rpm TC to a manual, boost came on a lot faster. I'm not doubting that paint and wrap don't help, because they do! But don't expect as drastic as a result.

 

what are you getting at on this one. as long as there is no load he won't make boost or minimal at that. not sure if you ever seen the thread on hear where the guys were trying to make boost in park and only made very little if any while reving the eng. and he said he had a 6 spd before the swap to auto and even then it made the low boost. i don't care how tight your stall is its not going to be tighter than a locked up clutch. i've seen a few threads on hear where people went to long tubes with the sts and lost boost i'll see if i can dig them up.

 

Here's another thread on the matter.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...5&page=1&pp=20

 

this is a great thread. reminds me of physics class. i liked that class, too bad we didnt build a turbo system though. i want a turbo.

 

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ht=headers+sts

there are others but i don't feel like going through them all they are mostly debates. but this has been talked about ever since the sts came out.

 

I had planned to do this on my RCSB when I put the kit from my Z71 on it. Good to know I was thinking correctly lol