what you're buying is a side mount blower. It gets bolted to the side of the driver's side head. It sits right above the valve cover, bolted to the front of the head. There's a cross over tube that goes from the blower to your stock truck intake.

The cross over tube has two extra injectors. . . These injectors are "activated" when you go into boost mode. These are the two injectors that we're referring to "NOT" use. When you don't use the Whipple electronics, they . . the single two injectors, are just dummies . . .

Now when you don't use the Whipple electronics to control those two extra injectors, your stock 8 injectors on your original truck intake, . . . those will be maxed out. This means that you need to look for the 42lb marine injectors or a set of 60lb. The Marine 42s are a direct drop in replacement. Yes your truck will need a custom tune to run this setup . . . and no you can't wait a few weeks for a few more pay checks and drive it around . . . it'll be running too lean = blown up motor. . ! ! !

 

thanks you... exactly what i was looking for... i like knowing how it works more then "just do this because thats what i said"... as of right now im meeting 100% of the injectors at the stock redline... i was told i should be able to run around 6300rpm now but i cant until i upgrade injectors... i was reading and planning on the 8.1 marine's... will these still be enough now though or do i need 60's?

and still wondering about the MAF sensor?

 

Dont bother with the whippletronics. Thats probably why that suburban engine blew. Just bolt the blower on, cap off the extra two injectors and move your IAT sensor to one of those injector holes. And yeah get 42# or 60# injectors. Then just tune and it and you're done. Much more reliable way of doing it. I bought one for 700 bucks awhile back. They are cheap but they are a lot of fun for the money!

As long as the pulley spins freely then it should be good.

 

You can keep the maf or ditch it if you get an sd tune. I would get the 60s incase you want to turn up the boost and especially since you have a 6L. Also should probably upgrade your fuel pump.

And the whippletronics require you to hack up your harness so i wouldnt recommend it.

 

cant the pulleys be swapped around? they run like 6-7psi right? thought i saw something where you can run more boost but not sure what the 6.0 will hold... sure i can find that somewhere though...

so no maf sensor... check...

good thought with the IAT... read about moving it anyways and was plannin for it one of these days i get spare time...

 

my buddy mentioned the SD tune... i thought it was more kinda old school though so i wasnt sure if thats what most have been doing on here... i did read that aftermarket mafs have been hard to tune for these motors and not to buy them... i need to research this some more... and you already answered my boost question i guess so thanks... got a recommendation on the fuel pump swap? ive built a couple cummins and ran the pumps on the frame with just a tube to the bottom of the tank... eliminating the in tank pumps that pumped to the injector pump... are these basically the same or is there a OEM replacement that is recommended by most?

sorry i build cherokee/comanche rock crawlerz and had diesels so these LS motors are all new to me... still learnin... only had this one since maybe june or july...

 

Walbro 255 intank should be plenty.

 

thanks man... helps abunch!

 

Good Find OP! I would have bought it myself for only a measly $350 as long as it wasn't junk. Long as its in decent shape.



You wouldn't happen to still have the whipple do you? It's hard to find ANY good deals around here. Everybody always wanting TOP dollar. If you know of anyone selling one that will fit on a 5.3L for a fair price I'd be interested and have the money now. I don't need the whippletronics either.

 

Nah sorry I ended up selling mine when i went to turbo