Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?
#12
Unless you have a adjustable timing set your installing the cam whatever was ground into it. and what the hell is a "orange box"? is that a codeword for your real installers house?
Oh yea did i mention i like billy better than you..
But seriously give me a call if you need any help..
Oh yea did i mention i like billy better than you..
But seriously give me a call if you need any help..
We go way back.
Winner! skolman, how can u not have a Home Depot? I figured people had heard of that slang.
#15
Getting it off is easy if you use the Chrysler style puller.
I always hated putting it back on more. There are a few install tools that are sold on LS1tech. Don't use the bolt and you should be fine.
New gaskets, or re-using old? You seem like you would get new.... Just remember to put a dab of RTV in the corner where the oil pan and timing cover meet and you should be fine.
I always hated putting it back on more. There are a few install tools that are sold on LS1tech. Don't use the bolt and you should be fine.
New gaskets, or re-using old? You seem like you would get new.... Just remember to put a dab of RTV in the corner where the oil pan and timing cover meet and you should be fine.
Yes, I ordered all new ones from Scoggin Dickey. I meant I didn't wanna pinch any gaskets, cause I don't have the fancy Kent Moore tools. Like the timing cover seal (I might have the name wrong, but I think ya know what I mean). Sometimes u have to work w/. what u have. Regular air & hand tools aren't any concern, it's just when u get into some of the specialty tools.
Any kind / brand of RTV in particular, or does it not matter? I didn't know if it mattered, but wasn't sure if I had to use Copper Permatex or whatever color, due to not freakin out sensors if even the tiniest residue finds its' way where I don't want it to.
I just used a regular 3 jaw puller....cut the flange off the harmonic balancer bolt...inserted the bolt back in to protect the threads....put the puller on and pulled balancer right off...and then remove the old bolt
to install:some guy on LS1 Tech was selling a bolt and washer set up for like $20 worked fine
to install:some guy on LS1 Tech was selling a bolt and washer set up for like $20 worked fine
I didn't sleep very well at all, so today was a wash.
#17
Thanks Michael on the bolt size.
I did, however, get my truck dyno'd today, so I can see what I'll gain. This guy doesn't correct for variances due to weather, cause he said he did that before, & it changed 3-5x over only an hour or 2. Now he just does the pulls, so what I get, I get. I could probably guess at what time the pulls were done & go find some weather website, & try to figure from there.
My previous results were 218 RWHP @ ~4800 rpm TQ was 252 ft.lbs.
My results today, after my tranny & stall swap. I expected a loss on dyno, & was hearing a loss of 20-40 isn't uncommon.
Today's #'s: - 198 RWHP @ 4700 rpm
Torque improved - 306 ft.lbs. @ 3300
This was on a Mustang. The humidity was pretty high, ~ 80%. Temps were around 75-80.
So, just lookin at #'s, w/. no correction for weather, I lost 20RWHP & gained 54 FT. LBS. About the HP losss I expected. The torque increase surprised me.
He said I really need some gear, even w/. the upcoming Radix. But he said that last time too. Said most running that tall of tire in back, ran way more gear. And he also said, my cats are gonna burn up once I install the radix.
I did, however, get my truck dyno'd today, so I can see what I'll gain. This guy doesn't correct for variances due to weather, cause he said he did that before, & it changed 3-5x over only an hour or 2. Now he just does the pulls, so what I get, I get. I could probably guess at what time the pulls were done & go find some weather website, & try to figure from there.
My previous results were 218 RWHP @ ~4800 rpm TQ was 252 ft.lbs.
My results today, after my tranny & stall swap. I expected a loss on dyno, & was hearing a loss of 20-40 isn't uncommon.
Today's #'s: - 198 RWHP @ 4700 rpm
Torque improved - 306 ft.lbs. @ 3300
This was on a Mustang. The humidity was pretty high, ~ 80%. Temps were around 75-80.
So, just lookin at #'s, w/. no correction for weather, I lost 20RWHP & gained 54 FT. LBS. About the HP losss I expected. The torque increase surprised me.
He said I really need some gear, even w/. the upcoming Radix. But he said that last time too. Said most running that tall of tire in back, ran way more gear. And he also said, my cats are gonna burn up once I install the radix.
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-03-2010 at 09:53 PM.
#18
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
the #s really aren't that important considering you're comparing an aftermarket stall to a stock stall. What is important though will be the comparisons after each mod from here on out. I'm just betting but when it's all said and done I'll say 395 rwhp and 420 rwtq.
#19
Nor did I dink w/. my QA1s on rear. Just like I run on street.
My best run, I actually had my hood down, but forgot to slam it shut once we finally got to run. I got lucky it didn't fly open. After that, I think the tuning to prevent the converter gettin too hot was hurtin me. Cause later runs were close together & time was running short.
Those numbers u said, are u sayin w/. cam only, cause no way. Cam & Radix, that seems possible tho.
#20
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
depending on how he ran it on the dyno, the additional torque could be from the higher STR ratio of the converter compared to the stock unit.
Everyone says FI burns up cats....well ive had my two high-flow magnaflows (spun type) on for 6 months with my blower and havent had any issues....although they are a bit further back than normal.
Everyone says FI burns up cats....well ive had my two high-flow magnaflows (spun type) on for 6 months with my blower and havent had any issues....although they are a bit further back than normal.