FORCED INDUCTION Turbos | Superchargers | Intercoolers | H2O/Meth Injection

Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-03-2010, 12:36 PM
  #11  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
skolman91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: muncie IN
Posts: 2,018
Received 57 Likes on 35 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1Bear
I would imagine Tom is referring to The Home Depot!
ahhh, makes me feel like a dumbass now, but to my defense we dont have one of those around here..
Old 09-03-2010, 01:47 PM
  #12  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
fastnblu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,718
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by skolman91
Unless you have a adjustable timing set your installing the cam whatever was ground into it. and what the hell is a "orange box"? is that a codeword for your real installers house?
Oh yea did i mention i like billy better than you..

But seriously give me a call if you need any help..
I'm not too worried, Billy likes me mo better.
We go way back.

Originally Posted by 1Bear
I would imagine Tom is referring to The Home Depot!
Winner! skolman, how can u not have a Home Depot? I figured people had heard of that slang.
Old 09-03-2010, 07:25 PM
  #13  
11 sec. Truck Mod
iTrader: (12)
 
TIM Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: OH IO :(
Posts: 9,736
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Tom, Just come down here and i'll help ya, its not hard at all, just time consuming.

If ya get stuck along the way give me a shout.
Old 09-03-2010, 08:03 PM
  #14  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
skolman91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: muncie IN
Posts: 2,018
Received 57 Likes on 35 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by fastnblu
Winner! skolman, how can u not have a Home Depot? I figured people had heard of that slang.
We have a lowes and menards but no depot. closest one is about an hr away..
Old 09-03-2010, 09:34 PM
  #15  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
fastnblu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,718
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Coban
Getting it off is easy if you use the Chrysler style puller.


I always hated putting it back on more. There are a few install tools that are sold on LS1tech. Don't use the bolt and you should be fine.


New gaskets, or re-using old? You seem like you would get new.... Just remember to put a dab of RTV in the corner where the oil pan and timing cover meet and you should be fine.
I'd wondered what the Chrysler puller looked like til now. Looks beefy. I should be able to find a puller or 2 in one of the drawers. If not, I could prolly rent 1 from Autozone, since they're only a mile away. My luck, if I don't have somethin suitable, I'll need it when they're closed.

Yes, I ordered all new ones from Scoggin Dickey. I meant I didn't wanna pinch any gaskets, cause I don't have the fancy Kent Moore tools. Like the timing cover seal (I might have the name wrong, but I think ya know what I mean). Sometimes u have to work w/. what u have. Regular air & hand tools aren't any concern, it's just when u get into some of the specialty tools.

Any kind / brand of RTV in particular, or does it not matter? I didn't know if it mattered, but wasn't sure if I had to use Copper Permatex or whatever color, due to not freakin out sensors if even the tiniest residue finds its' way where I don't want it to.

Originally Posted by guero68
I just used a regular 3 jaw puller....cut the flange off the harmonic balancer bolt...inserted the bolt back in to protect the threads....put the puller on and pulled balancer right off...and then remove the old bolt

to install:some guy on LS1 Tech was selling a bolt and washer set up for like $20 worked fine
Thanks for all the tips guys, I appreciate it. I've got a couple harmonic balancer install / removal tools, so I think I'm good there.

I didn't sleep very well at all, so today was a wash.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:40 PM
  #16  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
 
GMCtrk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 12,275
Received 17 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

To get the pulley back on use a 16x2.0 grade 10 bolt. I stress grade 10. Ideally the bolt is 120mm long, my local NAPA only had 110 mm so I had to roll with that. But it works, well.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:45 PM
  #17  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
fastnblu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,718
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks Michael on the bolt size.

I did, however, get my truck dyno'd today, so I can see what I'll gain. This guy doesn't correct for variances due to weather, cause he said he did that before, & it changed 3-5x over only an hour or 2. Now he just does the pulls, so what I get, I get. I could probably guess at what time the pulls were done & go find some weather website, & try to figure from there.

My previous results were 218 RWHP @ ~4800 rpm TQ was 252 ft.lbs.

My results today, after my tranny & stall swap. I expected a loss on dyno, & was hearing a loss of 20-40 isn't uncommon.

Today's #'s: - 198 RWHP @ 4700 rpm
Torque improved - 306 ft.lbs. @ 3300

This was on a Mustang. The humidity was pretty high, ~ 80%. Temps were around 75-80.

So, just lookin at #'s, w/. no correction for weather, I lost 20RWHP & gained 54 FT. LBS. About the HP losss I expected. The torque increase surprised me.

He said I really need some gear, even w/. the upcoming Radix. But he said that last time too. Said most running that tall of tire in back, ran way more gear. And he also said, my cats are gonna burn up once I install the radix.

Last edited by fastnblu; 09-03-2010 at 09:53 PM.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:49 PM
  #18  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
 
GMCtrk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 12,275
Received 17 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

the #s really aren't that important considering you're comparing an aftermarket stall to a stock stall. What is important though will be the comparisons after each mod from here on out. I'm just betting but when it's all said and done I'll say 395 rwhp and 420 rwtq.
Old 09-03-2010, 10:03 PM
  #19  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
fastnblu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,718
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by GMCtrk
the #s really aren't that important considering you're comparing an aftermarket stall to a stock stall. What is important though will be the comparisons after each mod from here on out. I'm just betting but when it's all said and done I'll say 395 rwhp and 420 rwtq.
That may be true on the #'s between the 2 stalls, but I thought I'd see a gain at track. Something. I expected a better 60" at least. if not better 1/4. I didn't tune for trans / stall whatsoever, but still. I had the Snugtop on at my last 1/4 mile outing; my lil jack & spare I tried removing, but that didn't do squat.

Nor did I dink w/. my QA1s on rear. Just like I run on street.

My best run, I actually had my hood down, but forgot to slam it shut once we finally got to run. I got lucky it didn't fly open. After that, I think the tuning to prevent the converter gettin too hot was hurtin me. Cause later runs were close together & time was running short.

Those numbers u said, are u sayin w/. cam only, cause no way. Cam & Radix, that seems possible tho.
Old 09-03-2010, 10:08 PM
  #20  
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
 
Atomic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 16,252
Received 374 Likes on 255 Posts
Default

depending on how he ran it on the dyno, the additional torque could be from the higher STR ratio of the converter compared to the stock unit.

Everyone says FI burns up cats....well ive had my two high-flow magnaflows (spun type) on for 6 months with my blower and havent had any issues....although they are a bit further back than normal.


Quick Reply: Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:46 AM.