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Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?

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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 02:23 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by skolman91
doesnt sound like you pinned the crank..?
Obviously, u didn't see my sig.
It's done too.

Originally Posted by Atomic
Just because its not stalling does not mean it is running well.
True. But at least I can drive it. And now I don't have to 2 foot it. I haven't driven it today, but I gotta go put some good gas in it. I wanted to take it to track tomorrow w/o a tune. See what it runs. Then have it dynoed & tuned & dynoed. I'll then take it to track again to see after cam & its' tune results.

I'm finally excited how it runs!!!

I played round last night w/. a few vehicles, but nothing that was playing back. I wanna go prowling again w/. my newfound power.

Atomic, since I'm no tuning pro, is there any table in HPT I can adjust w/o disastrous results? Could I just turn idle up to say 750-800rpms & not hurt anything? Baby steps u know. 1 step at a time.

Last edited by fastnblu; Sep 21, 2010 at 02:29 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 03:08 PM
  #142  
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Yea, idle table is pretty harmless. Most of the time is easier to raise the idle a few hundred rpm when tuning a cam so it doesnt die as often when returning to idle.

Running WOT with a cam without a tune isnt such a great idea....you dont have any feedback control in PE and without adjusting the MAF curve will run lean at WOT.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 03:37 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Yea, idle table is pretty harmless. Most of the time is easier to raise the idle a few hundred rpm when tuning a cam so it doesnt die as often when returning to idle.

Running WOT with a cam without a tune isnt such a great idea....you dont have any feedback control in PE and without adjusting the MAF curve will run lean at WOT.
That's not entirely true, if your running positive trims, which he probable is, then the PCM will add fuel based on that when it goes into open loop. You want to be safe, then add 10% to both your VE table and your MAF table and let the trims lean it out. Bump up the idle a couple hundred and even add 10% to the idle desired air flow table, in gear and park/neutral and you should have a safe, drivable truck.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
I played round last night w/. a few vehicles, but nothing that was playing back. I wanna go prowling again w/. my newfound power.

Atomic, since I'm no tuning pro, is there any table in HPT I can adjust w/o disastrous results? Could I just turn idle up to say 750-800rpms & not hurt anything? Baby steps u know. 1 step at a time.
If you were able to feel a difference with just the cam wait till you get it tuned, it will be night & day different

I don't think you need to go that high on idle speed with this cam, around 50rpm or so over stock will smooth it out a lot, close to stock in fact. Justin @ BB raised it only 25rpm over stock and it's a good compromise with a little bit of lope if you really put attention to it.
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 01:20 PM
  #145  
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if you are going to take it to the track, you should do some tuning. A test n tune with out any tuning is a waste of time.

I would log it, I would get a tuning tutorial and work from it...and I'll be right there, we can learn together...you are behind b/c I have been playing with it already

Like KBracing said...bump the VE...some logging...a few calibration changes and you'll be ready to tent n tune your PE table on the track!
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Yea, idle table is pretty harmless. Most of the time is easier to raise the idle a few hundred rpm when tuning a cam so it doesnt die as often when returning to idle.

Running WOT with a cam without a tune isnt such a great idea....you dont have any feedback control in PE and without adjusting the MAF curve will run lean at WOT.
Originally Posted by kbracing96
That's not entirely true, if your running positive trims, which he probable is, then the PCM will add fuel based on that when it goes into open loop. You want to be safe, then add 10% to both your VE table and your MAF table and let the trims lean it out. Bump up the idle a couple hundred and even add 10% to the idle desired air flow table, in gear and park/neutral and you should have a safe, drivable truck.
Originally Posted by jiar577
If you were able to feel a difference with just the cam wait till you get it tuned, it will be night & day different

I don't think you need to go that high on idle speed with this cam, around 50rpm or so over stock will smooth it out a lot, close to stock in fact. Justin @ BB raised it only 25rpm over stock and it's a good compromise with a little bit of lope if you really put attention to it.
Originally Posted by OnyxSilveradoSS
if you are going to take it to the track, you should do some tuning. A test n tune with out any tuning is a waste of time.

I would log it, I would get a tuning tutorial and work from it...and I'll be right there, we can learn together...you are behind b/c I have been playing with it already

Like KBracing said...bump the VE...some logging...a few calibration changes and you'll be ready to test n tune your PE table on the track!
I looked at HPT, I wanted to try & tune it myself, ...maybe.

But, since I've had it tuned before from a local guy & his shop is pretty reasonable, & has a dyno, I'll prolly have to go there again.
I really hoped to save some $ & try to tune myself.
As many know, there's so much to learn.

I looked at my HPT, I wish I knew how to log. I thought like Kyle said, I could add 10%. But there's a bunch of idle tables. I just wanted a 1 click raise idle rpm button.

And then just click a button, & apply to the screen by just hi-lighting the cells I wanted. Instead of changing ea. cell individually. It takes time to do this & learn.
IIRC, I was viewing an idle vs temp vs RPM table. I don't have laptop available so I can't say if I said that right.

Today, it stalled 2x, once when I put in Rev. & once when I got caught at an intersection. The idle has gotten a bit irratic now, even tho it was doin fine for a while. What little I know, I saw that my timing is up & down, up & down, from 3° - 18°. I'm thinkin that's cause idle is bouncing up & down at same time, they correlate. It's gettin cooler out now, ~70°, but last night I got on it from a dig to 30mph. It lit em up. then I tried it again, but brake stalled to 2600. It spun the tires real good.

Joe, I never went to track for fear of any potential lean issues. I wish I had a spare 5.3 & a garage, then maybe I'd take a few more chances tuning.

Last edited by fastnblu; Sep 25, 2010 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 01:05 AM
  #147  
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To change the idle speed,

Engine > Idle > Idle RPM > Idle RPM: Target Idle Speed (only thing on the left)
Click in the top left corner to highlight the whole table then go to the blank box on the top and type 100 then click the "+" button.

For base running airflow,
Engine > Idle > Idle Airflow > Base Running Airflow: Idle Airflow
Click top left corner to highlight whole table, then go to the blank box on the top and type "1.10" and click the "x" button to add 10% to the whole table.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:24 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
To change the idle speed,

Engine > Idle > Idle RPM > Idle RPM: Target Idle Speed (only thing on the left)
Click in the top left corner to highlight the whole table then go to the blank box on the top and type 100 then click the "+" button.

For base running airflow,
Engine > Idle > Idle Airflow > Base Running Airflow: Idle Airflow
Click top left corner to highlight whole table, then go to the blank box on the top and type "1.10" and click the "x" button to add 10% to the whole table.
I think I'm gonna try my hand at this. Where I get my dyno work & tune done, he said call him today cause Fri. he was too busy. They're not normally there on Sun. (to my knowledge), but he said he would be. I guess he either worked too late or it's

Anyway, I'll give it a go. Thanks.

Early this morning, I also read the tuning stickies, not that I remember much, but I'm gonna check that out again too. I need to learn how to log & save log files. Hopefully I get somewhere.

My tuner just got there, but I still wanna see what was done & I plan to learn some more. I'm not done learning, & I do wanna know what he changed. Anything else to get a get look at now that cam is in?

Last edited by fastnblu; Sep 26, 2010 at 11:51 AM. Reason: My tuner just got there, so off I go.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #149  
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Well its very easy to compare tune files in hpt, it will show you all the differences.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #150  
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Truck is tuned now. From what I saw, he changed so many tables, I couldn't tell ya what he changed. Plus, while I was on the ground viewing the dyno, he was already fast at modifying various parameters.

My truck is no dyno queen, & tho the numbers aren't that great as say Parke10 or D reks{5.3}, it also is a different dyno & not as aggressive as a cam as those guys.

From my last dyno session, I picked up 40 ft lbs. & 51 hp w/. this cam.

He said it kept pulling at the speed he shut it down at; if I changed my tire, he thought we coulda found out what more it had. Said we could dyno it 20x more today from how it sits right now, & maybe, maybe see 4-5 ft lbs. more. But that'd come at a risk, & he said in a car, he'd push it, but a heavy truck, it's good for where it's at.

It idles nice, doesn't stall at a stop in gear nor in P, N or R, & maintains idle in all those gears too. I wanna go to track Wed for T-n-T if weather cooperates, but may wait til weekend.

And 1 of these days, when I get a lil vid cam, some vids to follow. It lights em up even better from a dig now. And if I stall against brake, by the time it gets to my stall speed, it wants to break loose. It sat in place & spun quite nicely. I let budhayes3 & 1Bear get a listen to that.

It starting to shape up to be a fun vehicle now.

Last edited by fastnblu; Sep 26, 2010 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Brakestalls are fun now!!! :-)
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