You might try searching for some posts by F8L Z71 -- I know he switched turbos and ARs on his 5.3, I just don't recall exactly what he was after on the switching. I'll see if he can post up here too.

No sweat on the answers -- just trying flailing around for things to try

 

Is there a way to test the BOV to ensure boost isn't leaking? I don't have a cap to plug it off. I've pulled it off numerous times and inspected everything. I'd like to know a way to see if my spring is opening when under boost. Everything is so loud, I can't hear it if it's whooshing a little. Would disconnecting the vac line do anything for a test?

 

If you have an automatic trans unhooking your BOV should not be an issue.
I still don't have mine installed yet. Then you will see if it is affecting your boost production.

 

I don't run a BOV either, so I'm no help.

 

You don't want to unhook the vac line on your BOV, or it WILL leak under boost. When your boosting, it uses boost pressure in the vac line to help hold the valve shut.

 

Sean...........are you getting a bunch of boost creep?? I have a simple fix for it if you are, called a grainger valve, cheap fix from grainger and it only costs about $12 to make it, and it is actually a good mod.


Basically what you do is play with the valve, either opening or closing inline to the wastegate to get it set to your maximum boost level. Set it, and forget it almost, it has a lock ring. I run them on all of my turbo applications now, best thing yet. Nothing else to worry about once you set it, it might creep a 1/2 lb. of boost when getting down on it hard and fast, but it will settle quick and hold it where you want it. Adjustability is like 8 to 30 lbs. I run one on spool king and it turns a 11.2 on race fuel consistently and 11.5s on pump fuel.

 

Thanks Robin.

What about vac line size? I run 1/4". Has anybody noticed a difference in 1/4 to 1/8" vac line and boost levels?

 

If you saw my other video in this post on how my boost builds and drops and then look at this one you'll see that despite the boost drop the truck still runs through the gears pretty good for it's weight. This was done from a punch at idle. What's the chance that my engine load is really decreasing (causing boost drop) due to the acceleration and 4.56 gear ratio? STS saw this video today and said the .81 a/r housing is gonna hurt me rather than help.

http://media.putfile.com/wg-vent-to-atmosphere

 

I had a 3/8" line (put on by a lazy installer who was tired of wrestling the 1/4" line on) that caused my troubles. I'm all 1/4" now. The 3/8" we think was just not sealing tight enough to hold the boost.

 

Mine is still all 1/4 inch