Alum. blocks for boost
#21
I'll try again 
They make slugs for the stock LQ9/LS2 rods that are forged, rod could stay stock to save a few bucks, LS2 block, and a forged crank.
Not trying to change directions but I was reading on one forum that guys are using the smaller cranking in block like you have, going the other direction with the 4.8 crank...forget the site
SO how much time do you need to get ready for your last pre-radix shake down?? We need to find a rental...and try to put it on at the track, then we could see some real good compairsons

They make slugs for the stock LQ9/LS2 rods that are forged, rod could stay stock to save a few bucks, LS2 block, and a forged crank.
Not trying to change directions but I was reading on one forum that guys are using the smaller cranking in block like you have, going the other direction with the 4.8 crank...forget the site

SO how much time do you need to get ready for your last pre-radix shake down?? We need to find a rental...and try to put it on at the track, then we could see some real good compairsons
#22
Fastnblu-
It's funny, you're on the same school of thought as I am. For a nice DD I'm content with the Radix but would like to maximize the thing and just leave it. I'll be happy with high 400s at the wheels.
With that said, if I'm going to reliabily crank up the boost I should probably do something about my 110K motor so if I'm going to crack into something why not make it an aluminum block and offset the weight of the blower?
I'm torn between an L33, or for a little more for the motor, but the same or less for internals I can step up to an LS1...or for a few bucks more an LS2. Hmmm
At this point though, since my Radix is still in the out-of-the-box status I've started saving my pennies and collecting parts. Going to do e-fans and the 90mm J-tube/LS3 TB, 100mm MAF or SD tune and build a 4" intake. Since I'm in Ca. I'm going to get some mids or shorty headers and open the exhaust. Then a good tune and see how it is. At that point I may forgo the GT2-3 and smaller pulleys until I can build a nice little motor. I wonder what I'll see with just the intake and exhaust sides/90mm setup for power?
It's funny, you're on the same school of thought as I am. For a nice DD I'm content with the Radix but would like to maximize the thing and just leave it. I'll be happy with high 400s at the wheels.
With that said, if I'm going to reliabily crank up the boost I should probably do something about my 110K motor so if I'm going to crack into something why not make it an aluminum block and offset the weight of the blower?
I'm torn between an L33, or for a little more for the motor, but the same or less for internals I can step up to an LS1...or for a few bucks more an LS2. Hmmm
At this point though, since my Radix is still in the out-of-the-box status I've started saving my pennies and collecting parts. Going to do e-fans and the 90mm J-tube/LS3 TB, 100mm MAF or SD tune and build a 4" intake. Since I'm in Ca. I'm going to get some mids or shorty headers and open the exhaust. Then a good tune and see how it is. At that point I may forgo the GT2-3 and smaller pulleys until I can build a nice little motor. I wonder what I'll see with just the intake and exhaust sides/90mm setup for power?
#23

I'll try again 
They make slugs for the stock LQ9/LS2 rods that are forged, rod could stay stock to save a few bucks, LS2 block, and a forged crank.
Not trying to change directions but I was reading on one forum that guys are using the smaller crank in block like you have, going the other direction with the 4.8 crank...forget the site
SO how much time do you need to get ready for your last pre-radix shake down?? We need to find a rental...and try to put it on at the track, then we could see some real good compairsons

They make slugs for the stock LQ9/LS2 rods that are forged, rod could stay stock to save a few bucks, LS2 block, and a forged crank.
Not trying to change directions but I was reading on one forum that guys are using the smaller crank in block like you have, going the other direction with the 4.8 crank...forget the site

SO how much time do you need to get ready for your last pre-radix shake down?? We need to find a rental...and try to put it on at the track, then we could see some real good compairsons

I don't need much time to get to track, just a few days notice. However, I just need the time in general, it's been a precious commodity for me lately. But I gotta make $.

You've lost your mind. I sure ain't doin a Radix swap @ track.



loloone, I'll get back w/. ya tomorrow on what I've found. I'll throw up some links & so on.
#24
You will never feel a difference even if it is a 100# difference. Can you tell a difference in the handling of your truck between a full tank and an empty tank of gas? Thats 150#s right there. I personally cant tell the difference.
#26
If you're hell-bent on it, skip over the L33 and the LS1, go straight to the LS2. If you're gonna spend the cash, get some displacement at the same time.
Personally, I say use the LM7 you already have. It's already paid for! "Run whatcha brung!!"
Personally, I say use the LM7 you already have. It's already paid for! "Run whatcha brung!!"
#27
^^ Hey AKz71, what did your truck dyno with cam and without blower..? (Also noticed those 1.8 rockers, @ ~ .583 lift)
Had the same cam in factory TBSS LS2 (non-s/c) made 383/383 on g-force dyno..
Had the same cam in factory TBSS LS2 (non-s/c) made 383/383 on g-force dyno..
#30
Hey Tom, is the Radix on yet?

Seriously, once it is installed you will forget all about this thread for real. You wont be able to keep rear tires on as is with all the goodies you have.


