700hp should be cake if you have all the right parts especially thru a manual. There is really no need to spin your motor to 7k because 1. You can size your cam and turbo properly and have it make boost quick and fall off around 6200ish and 2. Why put all that stress on your valve train when you don't need to?

These are some of the parts I'd use

Ls9 gaskets
Arp rod and head bolts
New timing chain
Ls7 lifters
High volume oil pump
Comp 918's
Isky cam (contact stock48 he is member here)
If your on a budget a magnum 76mm turbo should easily do the job for you.

 

I agree. No need in tryin to get a target RPM.
Contact stock48 and tell him your goals.
He has some proven cam specs that will get you there.

Id be happy with 500

 

I had a decent plan to try and get 600rwhp out of a stock bottom end 5.3 with as close to 10psi as i could, before i wrecked my truck. But its not gonna be cheap..
Good parts, high compression, and e85 would do it fairly easy imo..

 

why ls9 gaskets? the 5.3 bore is not near that big and already has mls gaskets stock. if not get stock mls gaskets for a 5.3L from gm. no need for 7000 rpm so no real need for the arp rod bolts. last i check (and i could be wrong) but gm change the lifters to all the same now. ls7 lifters are stock for everything so if you buy new gm lifters they will be "ls7" lifters.

 

ls9 gaskets are 7 layer gaskets i remember correctly, good for boost.

 

But huge bore which can leave a gap between the head and block. The stock ones work very very well.

 

The LS9 (4.150") are great boost HG's but the bore should match the heads. The 5.3l or LS1 MLS HG's will be fine. If your going to step up to 317's to lower your compression, you could run the LQ9 (4.060") or the LS9's (4.100").

Rick

 

It's do-able for sure. The tune is the most important part of making it happen. You'll need a good transmission as well....

I'd guess that it might be easier to do with a well thought out turbo setup than a MP112 blower.

 

Agreed! Tune tune tune. And if a shop is doing it don't let them just hack it. Make sure it's tuned not "made to work". It's the little things like try and find a ls1 coolant cross over pipe. It connects all four heads corners. So when steam try's to build up in the back two corners it will release into the rad and let water flow. Steam won't cool.

 

dyno numberes dont always tranfer tot he track but good luck reaching ur goals and post up picks of the build once u get it going