Where did you get the shim from?

Yeah I am going to dismantle the Tru Trac, clean it up and use the thicker c-clamps. Guess I will check it every couple of years to see if the c-clips are wearing bad again.

That is the part I don't get yet.

Not sure as I didn't put that rear together.

I didn't put the rear together so not sure of preload

I was just asking cause it must of been way over loaded to break that shim, or they dropped it or used a chisel to install it maybe? :bang: which in turn could've taken out the tru trac

Remove Tru Trac...... put in nearest scrap metal dumpster...... install better designed traction aid more suited for use in a truck.... aka Detroit Locker. Done.

this man ^^^ showed me the light :angel: haha

It is sort of hard to tell from the pics, but is there wear at the tip of the tooth on the pinion and the ring gear? Can you assemble everything and see how they mesh? I know it would be very hard with the broken shim, maybe a new one with the same thickness. Did you install this? If you didnt I would check for a dent in the shim near a break. Maybe they dropped it and it broke. One thing that is important is to install and torque the caps down every time you check the lash when adding or removing shims. I know when they are installed properly you cant pull the unit out by hand, but when it is torqued down, the lash will change.

Yeah, odd thing is..this diff has been run hard for over 4 years now. It should have went out a long time ago if anything was setup wrong.

LMAO...I hear you. This is my last TT

I cannot find any damage anywhere except for the worn C-clips and slag on the case from the gear rubbing (+ broken shim). I am going to just replace the shim, C-clips, and dismantle the TT and clean up the slag so it doesn't come loose and fragment thru out the diff.

The shim seemed to break as I backed out of a friends driveway. I was near the curb, put it in reverse, and when the tires dropped into the curb (slight drop in the miami roll curb), I heard it pop. Then when I put in drive to go forward, the noise from the diff was an immediate howl. That must have been when the shim actually fell apart. It could have been cracked for awhile.

I was looking at those yesterday, good idea. I am going with the studs.

My 4 link cross bar is almost against the cover so running the larger finned one won't be possible without major mods.

4 years of hard usage is good IMO. Some people expect parts to last forever. I think 4 years of hard use is great, esp. for anything with a 10 bolt.

A Detroit Locker is good too if you can live with the way they behave. They are expensive as well.

Here are some pics of my Powertrax Lockrite mockup I made a few days ago. I went through 3 of them, this is the 3rd unit I didnt feel like shipping over the border for warranty.

Mock up on my alignment rack
Attachment 112064

Locked position
Attachment 112065

Unlocked
Attachment 112066

Attachment 112067

With a shearpin installed, there are 4 of them when installed in truck.
Attachment 112068

Coupler and driver assemblies
Attachment 112069

Compare the above Powertrax Lock Rite Locker, to this Powertrax No Slip Traction System. There are extra parts which are supposed to help quiet down the ratcheting sound while cornering.
Attachment 112070

peace
Hog