Blown06

iTrader: (32)

The correct way to obtain the correct flaming river rack is to give them the correct measurements for your particular vehicle. To do it right and make it easy on yourself you're gonna have to provide them with things like lower a arm attachment point measurements, tie rod lengths, your desired mounting solutions, the position of the spline'd shaft that hooks to the steering shaft (which will need to be custom made) along with some ideas about the total front end weight of the truck to make sure that what you're getting is adequately sized tie rod hardware. Also, last time I checked with them, the billet gear box on my truck was a discontinued a while back.

It's not like buying a set of headers where I could give you a part number and the **** would just bolt up and work. If it was that easy I certainly would, but there is a method to the madness when setting up front end geometry......but please don't take everything i'm saying to be gospel, the more work I do, the more I learn. So the next is almost always better than the previous one.

As far as how it drives, it's great. It's obviously not power steering, but still you don't need 24" biceps to drive it. Also, when setting up a front end like this, you typically dial in so much caster it does make it a little harder to steer, but it is needed to help the truck/car track straight at big speed.

If I could provide you with part numbers I would, but the nature of this subject requires custom fabrication, and someone who understands how things need to be set up.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

If you have any other questions, let me know and I'll try to answer them, but you are headed into "custom territory" and that territory rarely is able to provide tech support on a forum.

I'm not a sight sponsor so i believe they frown upon solicitation (and it should be noted that this is NOT a solicitation, but rather an invitation), but I would like to let you and anyone else that may be reading this know, this sort of stuff is what is keeping food on the table for me right now. I certainly don't consider myself to be a pro chassis builder/fabricator, but for the most part I do have some decent fabrication skills and knowledge to help others that don't have access to the tooling and knowledge needed to get things done like this.

You and anyone are welcome to give me a call if you might be interested in letting me do some work for you, or even if you have some questions I may be able to help with. Just shoot me a pm and I'll respond back with my cell.

slowec

iTrader: (9)

THANKS!
Text me when you have a spare moment.
Rodney 9122704829

zero2sixT

iTrader: (4)

Wonder how the conversion cost and time spent compares to upgrading to more boost and/or better turbo. Looks like you have the fuel system for it. I'd rather have a nice street truck over a strictly track ride.

slowec

iTrader: (9)

You realize I am on the edge of 1 k HP now? I need weight loss ;-)

zero2sixT

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I saw that in your sig. Are you saying that because you're on a stock crank or what? All I'm saying is you could probably get what you're after for the same money (maybe less) and keep the factory creature comforts.

Not trying to get negative or anything man. Just bringing up another point of view. Good luck with your project.

slowec

iTrader: (9)

Yea, I am not far from what my stock crank can handle. I have thought about a different turbo, but it is so nice the way this one lights off when daily driving. Sorry for coming off defensive. You good man.

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

Could lose the bumpers and go covers with fab'd bracing to lose some weight.
How many psi did you need for the 936whp and what intake you using? Jus curious as ill have a similar setup..

slowec

iTrader: (9)

Yes on bumpers!
19 psi on 93 pump/meth

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

19 psi seems low for 936. I was running 21-22 psi on E85 time in sig, but it's all relative I guess