88 cali tbi 350 build
Jan 26, 2012 | 10:05 AM
#11
Well just add up all your parts/labour costs first though. You need pistons, rings, bearings, machine work, heads( assembled), cam, lifters, retainers, pushrods, gaskets, oil pump, timing chain, etc. It's easy to rack over $2k out of that, very easy in fact. That's all a crate engine is, and it's all brand new to boot. But if you want the satisfaction, do it yourself.
Roller is the way to go though. Flat tappet can't touch rollers ramp rates and keep the same driving and idle qualities.
The MPFI is Edelbrocks crappy conversion that uses your throttle body minus the injector pod and their intake system.... Not the OE Gen 1 Vortec CSFI junk. I only mentioned it as it has a California exemption whereas any of the TBI to Vortec head intake options do not.
I really don't see how knowledgable and or intelligent these smog people are and if it all is there and working and the truck passes the sniff... well maybe you can run Vortec heads.
You don't need the dash if you ever wanted an OBD 2 equipped engine to swap. And if that's the case just dump a 6 liter in it.
Roller is the way to go though. Flat tappet can't touch rollers ramp rates and keep the same driving and idle qualities.
The MPFI is Edelbrocks crappy conversion that uses your throttle body minus the injector pod and their intake system.... Not the OE Gen 1 Vortec CSFI junk. I only mentioned it as it has a California exemption whereas any of the TBI to Vortec head intake options do not.
I really don't see how knowledgable and or intelligent these smog people are and if it all is there and working and the truck passes the sniff... well maybe you can run Vortec heads.
You don't need the dash if you ever wanted an OBD 2 equipped engine to swap. And if that's the case just dump a 6 liter in it.
Jan 26, 2012 | 06:13 PM
#13
an ls swap will be VERY FAR down the road... im gonna rebuild the tranny first, is there any way i can tell what kind of shape the current engine is in besides changing oil and pulling the spark plugs without taking it apart? and local shops in my area have quoted me at 1825 for a rebuild. is that a decent price for a 4x4 version 700r4?
Leakdown test and of course the old cranking compression test are pretty decent. Even hooking a vacuum guage up to engine vacuum can give indication of valve problems and what have you. Hot idle oil pressure is something else to look at to see how the bearings and clearances are doing. With 210000 miles on it, it may very well be fine for a good while yet, or ready to implode. It's all in checking it to see it's health.
Jan 27, 2012 | 06:15 AM
#14
Leakdown test and of course the old cranking compression test are pretty decent. Even hooking a vacuum guage up to engine vacuum can give indication of valve problems and what have you. Hot idle oil pressure is something else to look at to see how the bearings and clearances are doing. With 210000 miles on it, it may very well be fine for a good while yet, or ready to implode. It's all in checking it to see it's health.[/QUOTE]
i only drove it a few times around the block on account of it having no plates, but i remember it having good oil pressure, no knocks, never really stumbled... i did put in a can of seafoam though. the previous owners said they thought it had been rebuilt recently, but there's enough grime covering the engine for me to think otherwise...
i dont know about what all was included in the rebuild price, i only chatted with my mom over the phone about it for a little while. she still has to call a couple other shops. i also asked her about calling a couple local dealers for l31 long block prices
i only drove it a few times around the block on account of it having no plates, but i remember it having good oil pressure, no knocks, never really stumbled... i did put in a can of seafoam though. the previous owners said they thought it had been rebuilt recently, but there's enough grime covering the engine for me to think otherwise...
i dont know about what all was included in the rebuild price, i only chatted with my mom over the phone about it for a little while. she still has to call a couple other shops. i also asked her about calling a couple local dealers for l31 long block prices
Jan 27, 2012 | 08:02 AM
#15
i only drove it a few times around the block on account of it having no plates, but i remember it having good oil pressure, no knocks, never really stumbled... i did put in a can of seafoam though. the previous owners said they thought it had been rebuilt recently, but there's enough grime covering the engine for me to think otherwise...
i dont know about what all was included in the rebuild price, i only chatted with my mom over the phone about it for a little while. she still has to call a couple other shops. i also asked her about calling a couple local dealers for l31 long block prices
i dont know about what all was included in the rebuild price, i only chatted with my mom over the phone about it for a little while. she still has to call a couple other shops. i also asked her about calling a couple local dealers for l31 long block prices
Shouldn't be anymore than that for a new L31, and maybe even less. That's the 4 bolt main version found in 8600 GVW and larger trucks.
Grime is never indicative of much. People are usually lazy, buy cheap gaskets and that's what you get. I had a basically internally new looking 350 that looked like $hit on the outside too in a TBI truck. It was still garbage because it had been overheated and cooked but if it hadn't it had no miles on it. Yet it had greasy valve covers, leak at the pan rail and leaking intake manifold. It's worth a look.
Jan 27, 2012 | 11:47 AM
#16
GM Performance 12530283 - GM Performance 350 C.I.D. L31-R Long Block Assemblies - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Shouldn't be anymore than that for a new L31, and maybe even less. That's the 4 bolt main version found in 8600 GVW and larger trucks.
Grime is never indicative of much. People are usually lazy, buy cheap gaskets and that's what you get. I had a basically internally new looking 350 that looked like $hit on the outside too in a TBI truck. It was still garbage because it had been overheated and cooked but if it hadn't it had no miles on it. Yet it had greasy valve covers, leak at the pan rail and leaking intake manifold. It's worth a look.
Shouldn't be anymore than that for a new L31, and maybe even less. That's the 4 bolt main version found in 8600 GVW and larger trucks.
Grime is never indicative of much. People are usually lazy, buy cheap gaskets and that's what you get. I had a basically internally new looking 350 that looked like $hit on the outside too in a TBI truck. It was still garbage because it had been overheated and cooked but if it hadn't it had no miles on it. Yet it had greasy valve covers, leak at the pan rail and leaking intake manifold. It's worth a look.
Jan 27, 2012 | 06:18 PM
#17
Only difference is whether its 2 or 4 bolt main. If it's cheaper at Jegs than use that at the dealer. I just picked summit for an example.
May 31, 2012 | 09:58 AM
#18
i have a line on an 99 vortec 350 out of a suburban w 140k miles on it for 800 dollars. is this acceptable for an engine i will make the most out of for as long as i can? i would prefer this route as im trying to stay budget oriented. i dont need the intake or computers or anything since i will be putting the gm tbi to vortec head intake on. anybody who has swapped an l31 into an older truck please chime in on what you needed to get away with passing smog
Jun 4, 2012 | 12:57 PM
#19
i have a line on an 99 vortec 350 out of a suburban w 140k miles on it for 800 dollars. is this acceptable for an engine i will make the most out of for as long as i can? i would prefer this route as im trying to stay budget oriented. i dont need the intake or computers or anything since i will be putting the gm tbi to vortec head intake on. anybody who has swapped an l31 into an older truck please chime in on what you needed to get away with passing smog
Jun 9, 2012 | 03:41 AM
#20
can anybody in the bay area recommend a place to get a long block vortec 350? i dont really want to go to a dealer and buy a new one and i'd avoid pick and pull at all costs