Classic Trucks '47-'98 GM Trucks - Performance | Conversions | General Discussion

79 C10 5.3l swap setting up for auto x

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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 04:27 PM
  #161  
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Havent done much this week. Beeb trying to work out a sponsor. Talked with AIRTAB and they are sending me some airtabs to experiment with. Got some new decals ordered for my number and class to put on the doors. Have a group of guys getting together tomorrow to scale our cars and start brainstorming weight distribution. Might be starting some lightening mods next. More to follow
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 10:52 PM
  #162  
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Went to a buddies shop and got the truck scaled. Let me just say....this pig needs a diet. Not anywhere close where i thought my front rear weight would be. But the overall isnt far off. Definately have a few ideas on where to go from here, but i need to loose almost 1000 pounds from the front to be where it needs to be. Anyways. Heres the pics.
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 06:10 PM
  #163  
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I have been tossing around going to an aluminum block. Seems to be about 80-100 lbs depending on where and who you ask...
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 06:36 PM
  #164  
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Ive been trying to find where i can get 1000 pounds from the front also. An aftermarket crossmember could save around 1-200. A fiberglass hood would save 50ish. Fiverglass fenders would be about 15 each. Remove front bumper and brackets would be another 50. Thats not even half what i need plus thats well into 2-3k. For that much i could go FI and not worry about weight. Cant decide which way to get as of yet. An aluminum block would be nice but not in the budget either. Gotta think of a freeish way toake this happen.....
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 02:14 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by Mtrhd329
Ive been trying to find where i can get 1000 pounds from the front also. An aftermarket crossmember could save around 1-200. A fiberglass hood would save 50ish. Fiverglass fenders would be about 15 each. Remove front bumper and brackets would be another 50. Thats not even half what i need plus thats well into 2-3k. For that much i could go FI and not worry about weight. Cant decide which way to get as of yet. An aluminum block would be nice but not in the budget either. Gotta think of a freeish way toake this happen.....

Fiberglass bumper/hood/fenders, remove as much if not all the inner fenders, tubular a-arms, coilovers, aftermarket hollow swaybar, tubular cross member. If you have the coin go with an aluminum block. AutoX isn't a hp game, so throwing more at it won't make you any faster. Loose the weight, balance the truck out, and throw some sticky tire's on it (r888...re71's). Less is more. Look at the Miata guys and take notes. Lol.
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 06:30 PM
  #166  
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http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/120139-79-C10-Autocross-build-quot-THE-REAPER-quot

Ive been pushing along on this on a different thread above. Got down to 2500 so far.
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 09:39 PM
  #167  
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Just read through your thread and DAMN it looks like you're really going all out! It always sucks having the vehicle down and not racing but you get out what you put in. Which is a lot in your case!

Any predictions on your weight bias?
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 11:11 PM
  #168  
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Yes i figured this will be the LAST time i rebuild this truck........until the next time lol. Weight bias is sketchy as of now. Last weight i got showed 60% forward but there is nothing in the cab or back yet. Engine is so far back it should be good...im hoping.
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 11:21 PM
  #169  
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I predict a lot of upset CAM class drivers. Lol.
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