Where is this "reality" and how did you get there? Does this place come with proof or just a 6th sense on metal fatigue? And its spelled rating btw.

 

I guess the "reality" is a hypothesis made by me. My reasoning behind it is that the weakest link in a truck is typically the drive line. The factory rated the truck because in testing, at the max weight the truck still functions in a safe matter and should outlast the warranty by at least 2 days. If you try to stay 1/4 bellow that rating you leave a margin of error and save the truck from running at it's limit for the most part. Obviously a truck ran under what the factory tested it's max to be stands a better chance to not tear up the drive line(or anything else) then one that is pushed to it's limit and beyond on a regular basis.

Basically this is the "if it is worth building... it is worth over building" only from a different side. The over building is buying a truck that is comfortable in the factory's testing to be noticeably, within reason, better/stronger then what you really need.

 

Duramax+air bag=towing bliss

 

I would have to agree. I will have one, someday.

 

I'm sure not trying to be part of a gang jumping on you man, but you can bet your *** those trucks are built to last more than 2 days past warranty. They design the truck/warranty package so that only the extreme outliers (statistically speaking) will wind up needing major powertrain work before warranty is up. To accomplish that you need a product that will 999 times out of 1000 last well past the warranty period even when used to maximum capacity.

Design a product, then warranty it until right around the time you actually expect it to crap out and you'll find yourself making major repairs to about half of what you sell.

***EDIT***

That's right.......................... I pulled a thread out of the dark ages, at least you know I was using search

 

I have a 2500hd and custom traction bars. I pull a 30' goose neck and pulling truck total trailer weight was close to 16,000lbs plus 6500lbs for my truck. And it had 1900lbsin of tongue wieght and only squatted 2.5". And I pulled the load ok. Traction bars make a difference if built right. I have a 6.0.

 

Old threaad but if op is still curious i grossed 14,170 in my 3500 dmax with sand in the bed when i was doing a concrete patio, again thats payload no trailer.

The truck leveled out thats it, didnt sag in the rear and i had my bars cranked a bit in the front. I will say it was heavy but i only had 2 miles to drive down the road so thats why i did it, truck handeled it like a champ and the front tires never felt light. Just know your weight and give yourself safety distance.

 

Damn.

 

Mine isnt 100% apples to apples, but I have a 00' K3500 CCLB w/5.7, 4l80e, 4.10's. Owners manual says 6500lbs trailer weight, but that goes up to 12,400 w/7.4L.
Ive personally pulled 15k lbs and had the trailer brakes fail and the truck brakes handled it just fine, however it did increase the stopping distance. It wasnt fast either but the stock 160k mile trans didnt slip.


Now, the guy I bought it from informed me later that "ohh, I'd tow 22k lbs of cattle but had to use lo-range to get up any good hills"... I believe he found the upper limit of the motor, but the drivetrain handled it since its now at 170k and still stock.

So really its all up to how your truck is setup, also gotta remember the factory hitch isnt rated very high. I use a b&w turnover gooseneck hitch for 100% of my towing over 6k lbs, so Im not worried about the hitch.

 

I love old post!!

On the farm he has a 2004 2500 4x4 6.0 80E 4.10s
I pulls a 30' gooseneck loaded with Hay thats roughly 30k#, its a double wheel tandem high deck. 4LOW is your friend on getting that load out of the field. 2wd when it gets to the road and then hold it to the floor for a few minutes and it gets up to speed..
Tranmission and engine get pretty warm, but its been kicking since 2004.