Thumping or Knock in Your Steering Wheel?
05-04-2007, 10:22 AM
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Thumping or Knock in Your Steering Wheel?
Hey Guys, I get a lot of emails, PM's and phone calls about this problem. It's common on most all GM trucks from 1999 New Body up till 2007 New Body trucks. GM designed the existing steering shaft to be re-lubricated when it "thumps". But...it is only a band-aid and fails shortly thereafter.
Now GM has a New Design on the shaft. The correct part # is 19153614. The part retails at about $100.00 and up at most Dealerships. The labor is mosty $50.00 to $65.00 at most Dealerships.
So far I've installed about 150 of these (no kidding, at least 4 a week) shafts. As of now I've had no complaints and no failures on the new shaft.
I have inlcuded some information below from General Motors to help you diagnose your problem and possibly to help you install the new fix.
In a worst case scenario, if you can't reach satisfaction at your local GM dealer, you may PM me or email me, and I can help get you a shaft, since they are in limited quantities at most Dealers. If you need warranty information or pricing information feel free to contacte me also.
Any questions about this problem and it's fix, please just post it in this thread. I will continue to monitor the thread each day from 8am till 5pm and try to reply to your questions as soon as possible.
Thanx guys, hope this helps: Torque Wrench
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.
• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
Important:
• I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
• Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles,
For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.
8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.
After all of this you should be in the good. Of course if you need all this on paper, I can send you these directions with illustrations to make it a bit easier, they come with the purcahse of the new designed shaft.
Now GM has a New Design on the shaft. The correct part # is 19153614. The part retails at about $100.00 and up at most Dealerships. The labor is mosty $50.00 to $65.00 at most Dealerships.
So far I've installed about 150 of these (no kidding, at least 4 a week) shafts. As of now I've had no complaints and no failures on the new shaft.
I have inlcuded some information below from General Motors to help you diagnose your problem and possibly to help you install the new fix.
In a worst case scenario, if you can't reach satisfaction at your local GM dealer, you may PM me or email me, and I can help get you a shaft, since they are in limited quantities at most Dealers. If you need warranty information or pricing information feel free to contacte me also.
Any questions about this problem and it's fix, please just post it in this thread. I will continue to monitor the thread each day from 8am till 5pm and try to reply to your questions as soon as possible.
Thanx guys, hope this helps: Torque Wrench
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.
• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
Important:
• I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
• Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles,
For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.
8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.
After all of this you should be in the good. Of course if you need all this on paper, I can send you these directions with illustrations to make it a bit easier, they come with the purcahse of the new designed shaft.
05-04-2007, 09:49 PM
#3
Excellent info...how long have the new shafts been used in the field, are they tried and true? I know that the intermediate shaft has been re-designed a few times just to end up noisy again (I have one of the first re-designs on my truck lol).
05-05-2007, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
Excellent info...how long have the new shafts been used in the field, are they tried and true? I know that the intermediate shaft has been re-designed a few times just to end up noisy again (I have one of the first re-designs on my truck lol).
After re-designing the damng thing 4 times...they may have it right this time.
05-06-2007, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Torque_Wrench
• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
05-07-2007, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Neil 6.0
Can you tell me more about this? My truck does this and it drives me nuts.
05-07-2007, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Neil 6.0
Can you tell me more about this? My truck does this and it drives me nuts.
This bulletin is being revised to add the HUMMER H2 model. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002G (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment on a snap or popping-type noise coming from the front of the vehicle. This condition is most apparent during hard left or right turns at low speeds. Going over bumps while turning may also aid in producing this noise.
Correction
Remove the bolt-in front crossmember and add washers using the procedure listed below.
Important: DO NOT slot the mounting holes on the crossmember as stated in previous bulletins. Slotting the holes has been found to be less effective and, in some cases, causes the noise condition to be more prevalent.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.
Remove the mounting nuts, bolts and the front crossmember from the vehicle.
Clean all the undercoating off the crossmember in the area of the mounting holes.
Reinstall the crossmember with the bolts and nuts. On the driver and passenger side, add washer P/N 11509592, or equivalent hardened washer (see dimensions below), at each bolt head and nut location.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).
Apply an even coat of Anti-Corrosion Coating, P/N 12346501 (in Canada, 10952414), or equivalent, to the crossmember where removed. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.
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05-28-2007, 02:10 PM
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Interesting. I just bought a 2002 and at first I thought it had a strut problem after replacing those, I am now blaming the tie-rod end? I have yet to get under there and check. Could this be the steering column?
Symptoms sound right - clunk coming from drivers side during turns, felt through the steering wheel - feels like it could be a weak tie rod if you didn't know?
Can you explain the 2002 not having the locking steering - are they calling for a special tool to use when replacing the shaft? Is it as critical as they say? Also I found the shaft on ebay (same part number) for $70... does this sound about right or should I just stick with the dealership?
Symptoms sound right - clunk coming from drivers side during turns, felt through the steering wheel - feels like it could be a weak tie rod if you didn't know?
Can you explain the 2002 not having the locking steering - are they calling for a special tool to use when replacing the shaft? Is it as critical as they say? Also I found the shaft on ebay (same part number) for $70... does this sound about right or should I just stick with the dealership?
Last edited by dyers98; 05-28-2007 at 02:28 PM.
05-28-2007, 07:16 PM
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U need to get it wholesale if u could. I get it for less than $65 all day long. And u dont need a tool, just make sure the steering wheel is staight up and down. If u can lock it with a bar or something it may help. I do this for a living so I no where to put it. Takes like 15 mins tops.