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You would show an AFR error through those cells while data logging though. If your VE is dialed in and then you suddenly inject air and simply command a fatter fuel ratio you could get it where you want, but the computer will recognize it as leaner than you are commanding. I don't necessarily see a problem with that, but I think I would rather do a wet shot.
I was thinking the same thing about the AFR discrepancy and I was wondering if the difference between measured and commanded would make the computer do anything strange timing or fuel wise?
I know this might not be a valid concern but having a wet mixture in what I consider a dry intake worries me, distribution wise.
Also I associate dry systems with having a higher degree of safety, ie fuel is contained to a much smaller area in the intake, less fuel fittings, one less solenoid.
Also planning using FPSS, and window/tps NX box.
Do you think this would be a bad dry set up? Goal for the winter is putting a 150 shot through it...
I was thinking the same thing about the AFR discrepancy and I was wondering if the difference between measured and commanded would make the computer do anything strange timing or fuel wise?
I know this might not be a valid concern but having a wet mixture in what I consider a dry intake worries me, distribution wise.
Also I associate dry systems with having a higher degree of safety, ie fuel is contained to a much smaller area in the intake, less fuel fittings, one less solenoid.
Also planning using FPSS, and window/tps NX box.
Do you think this would be a bad dry set up? Goal for the winter is putting a 150 shot through it...
I'd say a 150 is too much for a dry shot without a doubt.
And to ease your worries about the wet kit, numerous guys run wet kits, with bigger shots, on these intakes with no issues. If you worry about distribution grab a throttle body nitrous plate.
I'd say a 150 is too much for a dry shot without a doubt.
And to ease your worries about the wet kit, numerous guys run wet kits, with bigger shots, on these intakes with no issues. If you worry about distribution grab a throttle body nitrous plate.
What are your concerns about the dry shot at the level?
I'm starting to consider the wet shot again but Its not ideal in my mind?.
I have a super conservative timing map and the knock retard is still pulling tons of timing. At a base of 11* and KR is pulling 5* for a total of 5*
I have a list of things that I think that could be possibly be causing the KR:
1. Some thing is really messed up internally (least likely)
2. plugs are too hot (unlikely)
3. frame contact (looked pretty good, has min 0.5''clearance and motor wont move much)
4. sensors are picking up the injectors (maybe?)
5. bad valve stem seals letting oil into combustion chamber (no visible exhaust smoke)
6. Actual spark knock
Added 1.5 to all knock sensors globally and that made a huge difference.
Still seeing some instances of knock but now its consistent and in similar places between logs.
Also maybe a factor to this is the trans tune being garbage. It currently loads the motor up really good because of its reluctance to down shift. So hopefully that will make a difference.
Also I took a small amount of timing out of the cells leading to knock and all the cells that triggered knock retard.
I attached a few logs and the tune, if anyone wants to take a look that would be awesome!
This one has me scratchign my head a little bit... I really don't know what to say but I feel pretty strongly that its not true knock. All 3 sensors are telling you air fuel is where it should be, and timing is way too low to be real knock.
I know in the past guys have seen KR when timing is too low, but I dont think thats the issue here since we had it at a more normal level and it was doing the same thing.
Good news! Pulling the timing table resulted in beat down runs the produced almost zero knock retard!
Now that that is good to go I have to get my list done to make it to NE dragway for the 22nd.
So far that list is:
1. Upper ball joint
2. Wheel bearing
3. Oil pressure gauge hose ( replacing the push loc garbage)
4. Tcc brake switch ( anyone know how to use HPT tuners to confirm that this is working)
5. anything else to pass tech inspection ( also not sure what is required there)
I have heard tech inspe at NED is a bit tough...
Also its awesome to have the truck out of the garage again and out and about!
10-11-2016, 08:38 PM
