Yet another 5.3 to 6.0 swap thread
#1
Staging Lane
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Yet another 5.3 to 6.0 swap thread
Hola bitches,
I just got word that my ATK hp93 crate motor is on it's way and I want to make sure I have what I need to get this beast locked and loaded. ATK says it's shipping with all the gaskets needed, but I need to supply manifold, valve covers, timiing cover and oil pan..and I'm guessing pickup tube and oil pump based on the pic from their website. So far I have:
Melling oil pump with o rings,
knock sensors and new harness,
8.1L injectors,
valley cover lift plate,
arp header bolts (there were a few broken ones when i put the headers in)
Is there anything I might be missing? I know I will need coolant, break in oil....still pondering joe gibbs br30 or some straight 30 weight with redline additive....a bunch of wix filters. Any other thoughts are welcome. Nelson tune is forthcoming as soon as I get the cam specs from Atk. Thanks for looking and cheers!
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I just got word that my ATK hp93 crate motor is on it's way and I want to make sure I have what I need to get this beast locked and loaded. ATK says it's shipping with all the gaskets needed, but I need to supply manifold, valve covers, timiing cover and oil pan..and I'm guessing pickup tube and oil pump based on the pic from their website. So far I have:
Melling oil pump with o rings,
knock sensors and new harness,
8.1L injectors,
valley cover lift plate,
arp header bolts (there were a few broken ones when i put the headers in)
Is there anything I might be missing? I know I will need coolant, break in oil....still pondering joe gibbs br30 or some straight 30 weight with redline additive....a bunch of wix filters. Any other thoughts are welcome. Nelson tune is forthcoming as soon as I get the cam specs from Atk. Thanks for looking and cheers!
[
Last edited by Flyin 1500; 06-25-2014 at 11:44 PM.
#2
TECH Resident
When I called them they said it came with an oil pump. You will need to use your pickup tube from your motor.
Make sure you use the proper o ring. Also make sure you prime motor before starting it. Make sure you put new
water pump gaskets and get some RTV for the corners of the oil pan gasket block side.
I would also change the timing cover damper gasket.
Let me know how you like that motor because I will be doing this in the fall.
Make sure you use the proper o ring. Also make sure you prime motor before starting it. Make sure you put new
water pump gaskets and get some RTV for the corners of the oil pan gasket block side.
I would also change the timing cover damper gasket.
Let me know how you like that motor because I will be doing this in the fall.
Last edited by gagliano7; 06-25-2014 at 01:00 PM.
#3
Staging Lane
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I have a new o-ring for the pickup tube. As far as priming the engine, my plan is to fill the oil filter with oil, pull the spark plugs and turn it over until I see pressure. I'm also going to use either Joe Gibbs BR30, or a good non-detergent oil with red line additive. I'm still on the fence on that one. I will definitely be changing out all of the gaskets that I can. ATK said it came with what I need, but I have extra just in case. I'll try and put as many pics up as I can. Engine will be here tomorrow, unfortunately I won't be able to start work on it until saturday. Thanks for the reply!
#4
Custm2500's Rude Friend
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Holy Pic size Battman...
That is not the proper way to pre lube an engine.
Does it work yes, usually, but it can also do damage as well. Most engine places will not warranty an engine if you tell them you fired the engine this way. The OEM Manufactures certainly will not as they require the use of pre lube equipment to be used by the dealer.
If you absolutely don't have the right tools, can't afford them, or possibly don't want to spend the money on them, At the very minimum, I would pour oil into the oil gallery through the oil pressure sensor hole.
This will minimize the amount of time it takes to fully prime the engine on first start up.
Even the assembly lube will wear off as the engine turns over. Dry starts on a fresh motor can cause lifters not to pump up, Damage to bearings and journals, damage to cylinder walls and rings, and so on.
That is not the proper way to pre lube an engine.
Does it work yes, usually, but it can also do damage as well. Most engine places will not warranty an engine if you tell them you fired the engine this way. The OEM Manufactures certainly will not as they require the use of pre lube equipment to be used by the dealer.
If you absolutely don't have the right tools, can't afford them, or possibly don't want to spend the money on them, At the very minimum, I would pour oil into the oil gallery through the oil pressure sensor hole.
This will minimize the amount of time it takes to fully prime the engine on first start up.
Even the assembly lube will wear off as the engine turns over. Dry starts on a fresh motor can cause lifters not to pump up, Damage to bearings and journals, damage to cylinder walls and rings, and so on.
#5
Staging Lane
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Fastbrick, as soon as I posted that I started researching pre-lubers. I'm definitely going to pre-lube before firing now. I found a video of a guy who did a diy one. That's the direction I think I will go. Here's his video
LSx Motor Oil Primer, Home Made - Pre Lube Prevent Motor Dry Start "How To" - LS1 - YouTube
LSx Motor Oil Primer, Home Made - Pre Lube Prevent Motor Dry Start "How To" - LS1 - YouTube
#6
Custm2500's Rude Friend
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Yup! He is a member on here AGearHead4Life
He posted it up on the LS1tech side of the website External Oil Primer Home Made - A Pre Lube Option to prevent dry start - LS1TECH
He posted it up on the LS1tech side of the website External Oil Primer Home Made - A Pre Lube Option to prevent dry start - LS1TECH