How to prevent this.....
07-29-2014, 04:22 PM
#22
How much Rwtq are you making ?
My Previous 07' Duramax CCSB weighed 7000 lbs and made 800++ rwtq with the stock alum drive shaft , no probs what so ever even with lift blocks .
You may want to get rid of the coils and do a conventional leaf spring setup with traction bars .
FWIW I use a 3.5 " steel shaft in my silvy , I know it's shorter than what you need but I would like said above check into if it would be a better option for you .
My Previous 07' Duramax CCSB weighed 7000 lbs and made 800++ rwtq with the stock alum drive shaft , no probs what so ever even with lift blocks .
You may want to get rid of the coils and do a conventional leaf spring setup with traction bars .
FWIW I use a 3.5 " steel shaft in my silvy , I know it's shorter than what you need but I would like said above check into if it would be a better option for you .
07-29-2014, 04:42 PM
#23
How much Rwtq are you making ?
My Previous 07' Duramax CCSB weighed 7000 lbs and made 800++ rwtq with the stock alum drive shaft , no probs what so ever even with lift blocks .
You may want to get rid of the coils and do a conventional leaf spring setup with traction bars .
FWIW I use a 3.5 " steel shaft in my silvy , I know it's shorter than what you need but I would like said above check into if it would be a better option for you .
My Previous 07' Duramax CCSB weighed 7000 lbs and made 800++ rwtq with the stock alum drive shaft , no probs what so ever even with lift blocks .
You may want to get rid of the coils and do a conventional leaf spring setup with traction bars .
FWIW I use a 3.5 " steel shaft in my silvy , I know it's shorter than what you need but I would like said above check into if it would be a better option for you .
07-30-2014, 05:57 AM
#26
I am just trying to offer another view / solution to the problem .
I'm not saying a linked suspension won't work or that they are bad , you are misunderstanding my post.
His stock rear setup isn't working , so either it needs upgraded with better parts or he could swap in a rear leaf setup fairly easily and in expensively , it's up to him .
But my leaf spring setup sucks , it only cuts 1.60s so far
Last edited by TIM Z; 07-30-2014 at 06:42 AM.
07-30-2014, 07:04 AM
#27
Installing leafsprings would be going backwards. That would also mean undoing all the custom brackets that weren't exactly cheap. Boxed lower control arms, upgraded panhard bar, beefier sway bar, and poly bushings would definitely spruce that rear up.
08-01-2014, 07:38 AM
#28
I was advised long ago by Inland Empire Driveline that the power I was putting down with the Tahoe back in the day was better served by a steel shaft. We went with a fixed yoke on the Gear Vendors output shaft and a splined steel shaft with solid 1350 joints in between. That configuration eliminates slipyoke binding on the tailshaft and has been bullet-proof through all motor configurations. I went with the same setup on the Suburban.
Honestly, it should be breaking axle shafts or ring gears before breaking the driveline.
Honestly, it should be breaking axle shafts or ring gears before breaking the driveline.
