Hi there guys ill be deleting the VVT on my 09 denali to do a cam swap, so far i have got these parts:

LS3 Crank Sprocket
LS3 Cam Gear
LS3 Cam Bolt
LS3 Timing Chain
LS3 Front cover

do i need anything else or am i good to go?

 

TR has a VVT delete kit for like 120.00 it may be cheaper than buy all that from the dealer.

youll need those parts
front seal
water pump gaskets
black RTV VERY LITTLE in the crack where the oil pan an blok meet, then youll see how the oil pan gaskets is put together youll need a lil dab on each side.
i say change to an ARP crank bolt(vs a tq to yeild crank bolt) 30.00

you have to drop the pan too so you can change the timing chain. change the oil pick up tube o-ring. its like 3.00

if you have the cheap damper on the 6.2 change to the LS2 wedge type damper its stronger its like 22.00

i have a cam swap write up on this ill post it

 

onto the cam install of the GEN IV it's simple as hell too once you get the pulley off.

pull the pulley off and prep up with a 10mm deep drive socket and a 6" extension or just use air tools your choice.
pull the cover off. on the GEN IV the oil pan gasket wraps around the front where the timing cover would be. only use a few dabs where the factory used it, i also put a small dab on the corners where the block meets the oil pan and timing cover.

gotta love a 1 bolt cam

pull the retainer plate with a TORX bit..i didnt pay attention to the size, but i can look if anyone really needs it.

if you dont have the cam tool like i didnt, just throw the cam bolt back in and walk it out VERY slowly and supporting it so it doesnt have to rub on the cam bearings a lot.

i soaked the cam in COMP CAM LUBE just to be on the safe side. went back in the same way it came out..nice and slow.
i cleaned the threads of the retainer plate and used a SMALL dab of Red Loc-tite on it. i understand the factory used blue or green. i dont care red loc-tite can be used but you have to remember to use VERY little thanks to how strong it is.
put everything back nice and slow take your time.
i dont have an UD pulley on this motor but i used the ARP 12 point crank bolt anyways. i pulled the pulley in then backed the bolt back out and used liquid wrench on 1 1/2'' of the threads and ran it in until the pulley stopped at the old marks the seal made.

not too bad for a first timer and having to run and get parts PLUS help a friend take a water pump off his truck. then the fiance' was home when i got back and had to eat lunch with her and spend time with her..damn women :tantrum: nah im playing...i enjoyed taking a break :matt

 

well, i pulled everything back apart to change the tensioner out...do i really need to make a write up?


pull the pulley, front cover

pull all the bolts to the oil pan to expose the pick-up tube

pull the oil pump and loosen the pickup tube so you can get the tube out of the bottom of the oil pump (change the o-ring imo, it's cheap)

take the tensioner out and replace with your new one


put it all back together...

you'll need a 13mm deep drive socket for the pick up tube nuts, 10mm deep drive with a 6" extension for the cover, the oil pan, and the oil pump. the pick-up tube is a lil weird so take your time taking the bolt out.

 

oh yeah you'll need new valve springs unless your staying with a stock lift size

 

i am doing a head and cam as well... my engine has 3000miles on it so do i need to do all that?

 

id replace the o-ring for the pick up tube.
if your pulling heads you need new bolts anyways
what heads are you going with? do they have upgraded springs?
installing yourself?

water pump gaskets are good, timing cover gasket is good, you need to replace the front seal bc youll damage the one in your VVT cover trying to get it out.
id use a copper sealant in the spray can on the gaskets so you dont have to worry about trying to hold onto them when installing.

i see your getting ARH 1 3/4" LTs why not go 1 7/8" so youll have room to grow if ever an wont have to put LTs twice...just my opinon. i did pacesetter LTs an now that im upgrading heads/cam im leaving HP on the table so ill have to get 1 7/8" headers. just double work imo.

also with a cam you should put a stall 3000-3200 imo i drive a CCSB with a 3200 an i still get 19mpg on the interstate an 14-15 in city. i still have 3:42s though so that might be why...

 

stage 3 livernois motorsports.. 690 lift..

no im having a mechanic doing it.. well i dont know why i got the 1 3/4 cause i heard i will loose high end torque anyways i wont feel the difference between the 1 3/4 and the 1 7/8 i already have the TC from Circle D 3600 258mm

 

why do you remove the tensioner?

 

look in the 2nd set of pics at the damper swap. your stock one is GARBAGE! id rather change it while its apart to a BETTER type of damper. your choice. id rather spend 25.00 on a better damper than replace the timing chain, retime it, take all the front apart again. yeah ill spend 25.00 now vs later